Potterton programmer problem.

I was wondering if eliminating the programmer might be a first option or is that complicating things?
 
Sponsored Links
No check whatever you want, output from programmer - output from cylinder stat- to brown on zone valve, zone valve moving ? 240vac on grey ?
 
Thanks for help. I will probably go down the road of replacing the motorised valve.
 
As long as you're comfy with multimeter, test sequence should be controller (is it emitting volts when dhw on its own is active). Then cylinder stat (is it getting volts from programmer. Is it sending volts to the valve) then valve (is it getting 240 between brown and blue, are both microswitch lines at 240v).
The other options are pay someone to do it or replace things one by one til you reach the faulty one (how annoyed would you be if you swapped everything & found the fault was a loose neutral at the wiring centre)
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks for help. I will probably go down the road of replacing the motorised valve.
you dont need to change the whole valve just the actuator head no need to drain anything then , but get a genuine Honeywell one not one of the cheap copies
 
I pleased to say that after changing the motorised valve I have know got hot water when I want it. However, sticking with the subject title, I will be having a ' Smart' thermostat fitted that will control my CH only making my ep2002 programmer partly redundant. Is there a smaller programmer or could I just use a switch for turning on hot water only. I am not particularly bothered about the hot water being timed. Thanks.
 
If the cylinder is well insulated then a switch should work fine or just link across it- on a modern cylinder the heat loss is pennies per day, putting the boiler in frost mode when you are away solves that problem.
If you start getting dhw firing the boiler at 4am there are loads of options, come back if you need them.
I'm surprised the installers didn"t update the control system when they changed the boiler (or was it a grant job)?
 
Thanks. I had the boiler changed and I was asked if I wanted to update the programmer. I declined at the time but since the installation I came across a so called smart thermostat to replace the existing hall thermostat. The CH will be controlled from my phone if I want. That does leave the issue of hot water only nevertheless.
 
There are plenty of 2 channel smart controllers- i'm no expert on them but have a good look round before you commit. There's one system (sure its a Worcester/Bosch job) that is all lovely and splendid unless your broadband goes off- if that happens then all your preprogrammed on and off times go out the window, you have to trot downstairs to the thermostat and press the MANUAL ON button like a poor person. And turn it off MANUALLY when you go out.

EDIT There's no duty to supply for broadband providers- you and your child won't freeze to death without internet. There's no longer any obligation to supply from the other utility providers but they generally try a bit harder
 
The main problem you have is that the EP range of programmers double up as a wiring centre so not a straight forward swap, can be done, easiest way if you just want to control the heating with your phone is nest E it is battery powered so you can fit it anywhere and put the receiver next to the EP and leave the CH on constant and you can override it with the nestE using your phone
 
Thanks. I will have control of my CH via the smart thermostat and app, I was just looking for simple control of the hot water only when the current programmer becomes virtually redundant.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top