my potterton puma 80e will not ignite for hot water or c h I've replaced the modulation board and the air pressure switch but this has changed nothing. It was being very noisy before it broke down and the shut down led would come on every time I used hot water, but only after I'd turned off the tap. It always reset again but now, nothing. please can anyone advise me before I buy every new part available in my semi blind search for the problem. jj
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potterton puma 80e
- Thread starter john jones
- Start date
B
B.O.B DOLE
john jones said:
when you turn on the hot tap can you see it sparking
no. absolutely no attempt to fire up. the red led on the modulator board lights up but thats it.
Hello ChrisR and DOB Dole, thanks for responding. the fault finding instructions inside the boiler led me to either modulation board or air pressure switch. However where an instruction asks "is there 240v ac between such and such" I have no way of checking this so assumed that there is. Before it broke down it had an almighty ejection of very very hot water from the lowest hot tap in the system. It didn,t break down immediately after this but very soon. The c h went first, followed closely by the dhw. I should say that the water pressure switch went kaput about six months ago and I disconected it and watched the water pressure manually. I did have to top it up regularly and sometimes have to let pressure out of the system. I now have a new water pressure switch which I am about to fit.
thanks jj
thanks jj
Be careful if you fit it.
There's a specific range of angles it's supposed to sit at (to avoid contacting things it shouldn't!) and a specific setting gap between the end of the rod and the switch (otherwise it won't work properly and the boiler will overheat.
There's a specific range of angles it's supposed to sit at (to avoid contacting things it shouldn't!) and a specific setting gap between the end of the rod and the switch (otherwise it won't work properly and the boiler will overheat.
Yup - I was seeing water pressure switch and thinking hot-water switch - which of course is cleared because the red LED is coming on for HW demand. Sorry for confusion.
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