Potterton Suprima 100L fires for HW only (CH - no response)

[FB3]

Potterton Suprima 100L installed - When I trigger the HW to on it fires up from Static Red to Green quite happily and burner ignites, however when I trigger the CH side of things nothing happens at the boiler - LED remains static RED (Myson 2MEP 2c programmer panel in house - in case it's this that is causing the problem) - Any ideas? I have pressed reset switch on boiler with CH set to on - no response at boiler apart from a couple of clicks - LED remains Static red at all times. With CH set to on, I have adjusted room thermostat upwards to try and trigger a boiler response - nothing...

 

[gavinda]

sounds like a your ch zone valve is having issues. chack for 240 volts on the ch valve BROWN wire OR if you have a mid postion valve check for 240 volts on WHITE and GREY wires.

 

[FB3]

Thanks for the quick response, found two zone valves beside the cylinder.
'Valve 1' has a white wire that loops in and out connecting to a blue wire with no visible exposure point to test, It also has a grey wire which gave a reading of 241.
'Valve 2' has grey wire(reading 241) and a white wire(reading 0) - I'm guessing this is not good.!

 

[gavinda]

Post a pic and I'll talk you through it tonight.

 

[Agile]

Its an orange wire which gives the go signal to the boiler!

But the valve is probably not moving! See FAQ on how to "feel" the lever to see if its moving!

Tony Glazier

 

[gavinda]

You have 240 on your permanent live. Check the brown wire on the zone vale motor for 240v, if present and the valve does not open then the motor is duff, however you will also need to remove the head and check that the spindle is not stuck. You should be able to turn it about 90 degrees with your fingers or very light pressure with a spanner. If its sticky, you should replace the ball and Plate with a service kit.

If you don't have 240 volts on the brown wire, the. You need to cue l you have a call for heat from your room stat and also the clock.

 

[Whitespirit66]

This diagram is good for seeing which wires come into play when ch is calling.

http://octaveblue.co.uk/c_heating/sp_ch.htm

 

[FB3]

Apologies for the delay in replying. Thanks for all contributions so far. Latest findings: Orange wire on zone valve getting 0 volts, was able to move lever below motor ninety degrees with my thumb and it moved smoothly out and back to rest position. Brown wire on zone valve is reading 240volts so if I'm reading above comments correctly sounds like I need a new powerhead? Or should I simply replace the actuator device(blue wires to this didn't seem to want to budge but I didn't apply too much force to removing them). Any guide as to what I should look to pay (V4043H1106)

 

[gavinda]

If you have 240v on le brown wire and le valve moves freely, then you just. We'd to replace le valve motor. Piece of ****, about £15 for a motor.

 

[FB3]

Where can I find it at that price?!?

 

[gavinda]

Dunno, I order my stuff through work, but I just googled 'synchron motor' and screw fix offer it for about £14 pounds. Look for 'Drayton synchron motor'