Power Shower problem....HELP!

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Shropshire
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Hi folks,

Just wanted a plumbers feedback on a situation with a power shower Basically there a Triton AS2000X (http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TTAS2000X.html) power shower thats been fitted into our new en-suite by a 'plumber!' and there are problems with it.

This is the way he has plumbed in the shower:

untitled-1.jpg


He has also fitted a PRV (pressure release valve) to the pipe which is connecting the tank in the loft to the shower.

The upshot of all of this is that there is a loss of hot water pressure through the whole house and it splutters through the taps even when the shower isnt running and also have no pressure coming to the shower and all we hear is the pump in the shower running. After about 15-20 seconds we get a dribble of water coming through the shower head.

Im by no means a plumber and have zero experience plumbing in power showers and wondered if any kind fellow here could offer their advice as to the way its been plumbed in and how it should be correctly plumbed in

Thanks
 
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the hot water sounds like its airlocked in the cylinder outlet supply.
can't see why he's fitted a prv valve in the cold feed. you sure its not just a bleed valve ?
does the cold come straight from the tank or from the mains ?

if the showers getting no water don't run it the as2000's need priming by the link on the pcb before your connect the front cover/wiring into the pcb.
 
the hot water sounds like its airlocked in the cylinder outlet supply.
can't see why he's fitted a prv valve in the cold feed. you sure its not just a bleed valve ?
does the cold come straight from the tank or from the mains ?

if the showers getting no water don't run it the as2000's need priming by the link on the pcb before your connect the front cover/wiring into the pcb.

Yeah its defo a PRV valve, checked on the invoice and online to try and find a comparison. Its got a bar pressure reader on there.

The supply from the cylinder has been taked from a 22mm pipe at the side of the tank. Its on a T type connection that goes up into the loft and straight into the shower.

The pipe from the water teank in the loft is a standard 15mm pipe with the PRV fitted to it half way between the tank and shower.

Could I ask what i would need to do to prime the shower and release the airlock in the pipes? If its relatively simple to do ill try it myself. Also, is the PRV valve needed on the cold supply as the water pressure was better before it was fitted, i mean would it be ok to remove?

What does your hot water cylinder look like ?

Not sure how to describe the cylinder to be honest. Im guessing its just a normal type with a green covering on it.
 
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Yeah its defo a PRV valve, checked on the invoice and online to try and find a comparison. Its got a bar pressure reader on there.

you don't need a prv on the cold if its coming straight from a outlet on the cws. it won't do anything.

The supply from the cylinder has been taked from a 22mm pipe at the side of the tank. Its on a T type connection that goes up into the loft and straight into the shower.

thats ok to take it from a t providing it below the horizontal pipe from the top of the cylinder.

The pipe from the water teank in the loft is a standard 15mm pipe with the PRV fitted to it half way between the tank and shower.


can't see why he's fitted that on a gravity supply. pointless.

Could I ask what i would need to do to prime the shower and release the airlock in the pipes? If its relatively simple to do ill try it myself. Also, is the PRV valve needed on the cold supply as the water pressure was better before it was fitted, i mean would it be ok to remove?

providing the cold comes from the cws then remove thr prv.
depending how he's ran the pipesif the cold comes straight from the cws to the shower it shouldn't airlock if its on a constant fall.

if you isolate each supply and remove the two filters you can open each suplly just to make sure the water is getting to the filters then replace them.
turn the shower to fully cold and only have the hose connected not the head and lay in the bath and you should have a link that gos on the two centre prongs that enables the solenoid valve to open but the motor not running and that will prime the pump.
let it run in fully cold and slowly turn to fully hot that will release any air from the pump.

has he not left the manual ?
 
Nope, no manual. will have to download it from the web me thinks. Thanks for your advice though, will give it a try
 

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