Powerflushing Baxi 105e

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I am going to powerflush our system this week, but am unclear as to what I need to block off to avoid damage to the boiler.

Any suggestions or advice?
 
shouldnt damage the boiler if it is already in use, but if you isolate the flow and return pipes at the boiler (there are 2 taps to do this) and powerflush your system till clean then isolate all the rads and flush the boiler on its own for 5mins also.
 
None of that will clean the secondary heat exchanger, which may be the most critical bit...
 
New to this, but I doubt the secondary heat exchanger is the cause of cold radiator bottoms?

Granted, this boiler has been in for 4 yrs, and the system wasn't properly flushed when it was installed, so there will be crud inside the secondary heat exchanger, but flushing the system will still surely be beneficial, won't it?
 
OK, so I have the powerflush machine, a Nordstrom one. I have looked carefully at the boiler, and at the fittings that came with the machine, and there is not obvious way to connect at the boiler.

There is a valve at both radiator out and radiator in, and these valves have a blank, so with the right connections you could connect here, BUT closing the valve would mean that you were only flushing the boiler, which would be pointless, right? I was under the impression that the whole idea was to flush the whole system, except the boiler?

I am going to hook up at a radiator instead, I will have the boiler switched off, but this will mean that the pumping is going through the boiler. Isn't this likely to damage the pump?

I have forked out over £100 to have this thing for the weekend, and don't want to do something that will damage my boiler. Any advice gratefully received.

Apparantly I have the appropriate connections to hook up in place of the pump, but I am really not too comfortable with removing the pump.
 
williamm said:
I am really not too comfortable with removing the pump.

Then you are not competent to carry out a powerflush,
You may actually do more harm than good if you do not know what you're doing.

Fitting the powerflush on the pump connections is the best way to clean the system, the pump is on the return and will 'suck' in all the dirty water from the rads and push clean water into the boiler and through the rads back to.. you got it.
 
If you can pluck up the courage to remove the pump you can do the boiler primary heat ex and the primary side of the domestic heat ex by running a tap though leave boiler electrically isolated.

To flush the rest of the system, I tend to go for an upstairs bathroom rad, remove it replace with powerflush. Mine isn't a particularly good one so I have to stand it high up on a stool or the water overflows. I certainly couldn't use it downstairs except in a bungallow.

Isolate all rads but one other and the one the powerflush is on, isolate one side of the boiler, doesn't matter which. Flush a rad at a time, both directions, frequent changes of direction. Bang rad to encourage dislodging of sludge.

I do the whole process with water first, a rad at a time and a full drain between rads. Then do it all over again with chemical (fx2 in my case), but can't afford to drain down each time. Minimum 10 minutes per rad. Then flush with water a couple of times, finally neutralise with inhibitor.
 
I doubt the secondary heat exchanger is the cause of cold radiator bottoms?
The world didn't know about your bottom problem.

As often as not one has to cut ppe and put tees in, or similar, to do a powerflush. Holes in trv's for example, are often only 4mm or so diameter so you don't get much flow unless you take the valves off and connect to the pipes.
But all the rads are in parallel, so if you connect at one of them and turn off a boiler isolation valve, you can flush each rad in turn. SHut all rads and open boiler iso valve, and you're flushing the boiler.
 

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