Prep for tiling wooden floor

[xeres]

Diynot

Ok tilers, need your help for some prep work to fit tiles in an open plan kitchen which runs into a soon to be carpeted lounge area. The key thing I'm trying to achieve is having as small a step as I can dr the tile to the carpet!

It's a first floor flat in an old Georgian townhouse conversion. I understand I have a couple of options:

1.
Rip up floorboards and replace with t&g 18mm chipboard for flooring. Sheet with 6mm wbp ply and tile.

2.
Rip up floorboards and replace with wbp 24mm ply (Would this need noggins?)

Want this to be done right once by myself an this is a first. Any and all of your input appreciated.

 

[tpt]

your first option wont work. dont do that one. if overboarding with ply it has to be at least 12mm

have a search on here, theres loads of info, and give this a read
http://www.tradepricetiles.co.uk/blog/tiling-a-wooden-floor-yes-you-can

 

[Happyplumber]

forget all about chipboard

Ply will be the best way forward and noggins on edges or to stop movement is always a good idea

Being wood structure the floor will move no matter what but by screwing everything down fitting noggins and the correct size ply at least if there is movement then it is uniformal .This stops tiles cracking

Once you have fitted the floor make sure to use a good quality flexible adhesive and also prep the ply using what the adhesive manufacturer recommends or SBR bond is normally a personal favourite

 

[xeres]

Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated.

Curious question - chipboard is obviously no go for wet area applications. In the kitchen however, it doesn't experience anywhere near as much water (excluding leaks). Everyday usage should reasonably be fine unless I am being incredibly naive...?

Thanjs

 

[tpt]

Chip flexes more/differently to ply, its always a worse base. If chip is already fitted then you can overboard and it will be fine, if you have the choice up front then don't ever bother with chipboard.

 

[xeres]

Thanks

Followed the advice on the blog tip and laid 6 mm hardiebacker on screwed floor boards. Gripfilled we the whole thing to death.

X

 

[indus]

Wouldn't a decoupling membrane be a good idea?

 

[xeres]

Hi there

Thanks for your input. However I have no idea what a decoupling membrane is! Would you be kind enough to expand?

Thanks

 

[indus]

I'm no expert but it is meant to prevent cracking of tiles when they are laid over a wooden floor.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f6FyWs2WZ1k

 

[tpt]

No, a decoupling membrane stops issues caused by lateral movement (usually expansion\contraction) they are mostly used where the substrate has been laid in large sections that move differently.

Wooden floors move vertically - they bounce, and you have to remove as much bounce as possible, then use a flexi adhesive

 

[indus]

No, a decoupling membrane stops issues caused by lateral movement (usually expansion\contraction) they are mostly used where the substrate has been laid in large sections that move differently.

Wooden floors move vertically - they bounce, and you have to remove as much bounce as possible, then use a flexi adhesive

Thanks.

So are you saying that the OP would not benefit from using a decoupling membrane?

 

[xeres]

Seriously impressed with the level of feedback I receive on this forum from people. Thank you so much for your time guys. If there is a mechanism on the forum to say thank you (other than this post) such as recommendations etc then please do say as I would like to do so.

On topic, this is only a very small kitchen - 3m x 2m in an open plan room so decoupling should by an issue based on tcp's advice.

In other news, primer. Laid the 6mm hardiebacker and plan to prime and tile. I put primer g down as I was informed it was an sbr primer equivalent but may be regretting that decision having read up on it and based on advice you may provide. Given that I have done that, can anyone recommend a flexible adhesive and grout to use alongside when attaching my tiles for this particular situation?

Thanks

 

[tpt]

sorry should have said
'Wooden floors move vertically - they bounce, and you have to remove as much bounce as possible, THEN OVERBOARD, then use a flexi adhesive'.

Wood floors do have some lateral movement due to expansion\contraction but ply\backer works around this. domestic wooden floors dont have enough to warrant the use of one. bounce and flex is the main issue. Flexi adhesives do also allow some lateral movement.
uncoupling membranes only help with lateral, and dont help with vertical, so yes the OP could do both, but the key one is the vertical