Primer For WBP Plywood - Zinsser Cover Stain ?

[WhiteVanJack]

Hi,

I need to prime some WBP plywood before painting with a top coat of low slip paint (Bradite Polyurethane DP5) and wondered what my options were?

I primed one panel of the plywood with Zinsser Cover Stain but am not sure if this is the best product for my needs. The Zinsser Cover Stain is quite thick and when applied to the bare plywood I seem to be using quite a bit of paint to get a decent 1st coat of primer plus it is not that easy to apply in warm weather. There are no details on the tin about thinning the Zinsser Cover Stain so I am not sure if I could do this to get a bit more coverage and easier application?

Are there any other options for a primer for bare WBP Plywood that will then receive a top coat of polyurethane low slip paint? I think that I read on another thread that aluminium primer can be used to prime bare plywood and wondered if this could be used. Just to clear up any confusion would this be Aluminium Wood Primer rather than a primer used to prime aluminium?

Once fully painted, the plywood will be used as staging with an aluminium tower for home/domestic use so there is no need for a high quality finish as long as it is weatherproof and has the low slip top coat.

Any suggestions most appreciated.


Rgds
Jack

 

[misterhelpful]

As CoverStain is a stain blocking product it shouldn't really be thinned as this weakens it's capabilities.
I don't think I've used the Bradite, but Aluminium Wood Primer should be fine with it (usually is with most products) and will be a lot cheaper than the Zinsser.
As you do not need the boards to be perfect then there is no real need to apply knotting solution or B-I-N to any knots, if there any, as the aluminium primer will generally hide the majority of resinous bleed. Just ensure all edges are well coated.

This will give you a little confirmation of it's suitability for plywood:
//www.diynot.com/pages/de/de019.php

 

[TheDec]

Jack,

Yes the Aluminium primer is for wood and will both seal and protect the plywood, a very good product for such work. With regard to the polyurethane paint I don't really invisage any problems with it's capability to fully bond with the primer, however it may be worth checking this out before application.

Dec

 

[WhiteVanJack]

Mr. H.

Thx for the reply and the link.

I will use up what I have of the Zinsser Cover Stain then move on to some Aluminium Wood Primer for the rest of the priming.

Just one point, in the remote chance of wanting to give the boards a 2nd coat of primer, do you think it would be OK to use Aluminium Wood Primer as the 2nd primer coat on top of the Zinsser Cover Stain ?


Rgds
Jack

 

[misterhelpful]

I don't see any reason why not, as the Coverstain is a suitable primer for most paints. It's not something I have ever done myself so can't say for certain though.

 

[skenk]

The Zinsser BIN or 123 would be better than cover stain

 

[WhiteVanJack]

TheDec, Mr. H.

Thx both for your input re the plywood priming.

On the subject of aluminium wood primer, I have a large square bay window to renovate in the near future which will probably involve removing the paint back to bare wood followed by priming, undercoating and top coating.

For the undercoat and top coat I will be using Dulux Trade Weathershield exterior paints (white undercoat & white gloss top coat) but had not decided on a primer. Would aluminium wood primer be suitable for this? If the bay window is made of the same wood to the other house windows then I think it is some type of pine, possibly canadian pine and will probably have a few resinous knots. Will aluminium wood primer have enough "barrier" properties for this or should I stick with knotting solution to seal the knots?


Rgds
Jack

 

[TheDec]

Jack,

The Aluminium Primer will be well up to the job, as I have said before on another thread the primer will leave a greyish/ blue tint yet it is easily covered with a well applied undercoat.

Dec

 

[misterhelpful]

I don't foresee any problems with it but if there are any parts that seem overly resinous you could spot prime those with the AWP first before applying a full coat all over. Shouldn't really be necessary with most pine timbers though.

 

[WhiteVanJack]

Jack,

The Aluminium Primer will be well up to the job, as I have said before on another thread the primer will leave a greyish/ blue tint yet it is easily covered with a well applied undercoat.

Dec

TheDec,

Are there any makes of aluminium wood primer to avoid or are they all equally as good as each other if buying the "Trade" versions from the main players such as Crown, Dulux, Johnstones etc?


Rgds
Jack

 

[TheDec]

No need Mr H the aluminium primer alone is well capable, in my mind one of if not the best primer/ blockers ever.

Dec

 

[TheDec]

Jack,

Not really, all the aluminium primers retain both the same binders and suspension as their Trade counterparts. And all will perform well.

Dec

 

[WhiteVanJack]

One last question on the use of aluminium wood primer, is there any risk of the metal content absorbing too much heat from sunlight causing it to lift and degrade the finish of the upper coats of undercoat and gloss?

The final finish will be white gloss which will be less heat absorbing than darker colours. However, we get full sun on the windows to be painted for approximately 3 or 4 hours per day until early afternoon.

It would be a bit soul destroying to take the frames back to bare wood then apply 4 coats of paint only for it to degrade and lift due to the metal content of the primer.


Rgds
Jack

 

[misterhelpful]

There should be no problems with heat from sunlight. If you consider the temperatures of a heat gun required to remove the paint, I very much doubt that the window area will get anywhere near that and so would certainly think you are safe on that point.

 

[joe-90]

Take your tablets, Jack.