Hi All,
Been reading this for a while now, very useful set of forums...
Anyway, moved into a house just before Xmas and the previous owners had a Protherm 100e installed which seemed to be working OK for the first couple of days but occasionally tripped out showing F1 error code (no flame detected).
Then it got to the stage where a reset wouldn't help and it would only try and ignite if I ran the hot water tap, but even then it would sound like it was trying but it didn't ignite and F1 appeared again.
Called the boiler man out who had a look and replaced the Ignition PCB (had to order it from France cos Protherm are so popular(!) (cost £160 inc labour) since the old one was broken, according to his multimeter readings.
Worked for a day, then the same thing started happening again... Blokey came round again, thought it might be the gas valve so ordered one of those, and that didn't arrive until last Friday so we had a v cold Xmas and New Year huddled round a convector heater...
The gas valve didn't make any diff so he ordered a replacement PCB,which arrived over the weekend and was fitted today. This seems to have solved the main problem although there's a few things now which are puzzling me and thought I'd ask on here:
1) Does this sound like the solution to the problem or do you think it will rear it's ugly head again in a few days?
2) Being new to combis I dind't realise that a full flow would only give tepid water, so I've figured out only to half open the tap now in order to get water at a decent temp (that was going to be my first Q)
3) Main problem is we don't have a room thermostat so have to use the timer and controls on the front of the boiler to control the heat. When I use the timer to turn the boiler off at night, the burners go out, but then after a few mins the display trips out to F1. Then, when the boiler is supposed to reignite in the morning it won't cos it's showing F1 so we end up with a cold house. What should happen when the timer turns the boiler off, surely the burners go out, but how then do we get round F1 showing up when obviously there's no flame detected!?
Before F1 comes on, if I manually turn the boiler on again to constant (not timed) then it will reignite fine without having to run the hot tap or anything.
4) Linked to Q3 - if I turn the temp down on the CH temp dial past about half way, the burners go out, and for a while the display continues to show the CH temperature, but I'm fairly sure (if I sat there long enough) that it would trip out to F1 again cos the burners aren't lit.
{EDITED TO ADD}
This morning I noticed, it's not tripping back to F1 when the timer turns off or when I turn the temp down, it's doing it when it tries to reignite. It makes the whooshing sound of the gas being fed through, but instead of lighting after a couple of seconds, after about 6 seconds it goes to f1 and I need to restart... To top it all off, I can't get the CH on without running the hot tap again... so much for being fixed!
Sorry for the v long post, but I'm still learning all this, not really had to deal with plumbing or boilers before!
Any advice or ideas would be gratefully received (yes, I know, I'll get a decent well-known boiler when the time coes to replace this one!)
Been reading this for a while now, very useful set of forums...
Anyway, moved into a house just before Xmas and the previous owners had a Protherm 100e installed which seemed to be working OK for the first couple of days but occasionally tripped out showing F1 error code (no flame detected).
Then it got to the stage where a reset wouldn't help and it would only try and ignite if I ran the hot water tap, but even then it would sound like it was trying but it didn't ignite and F1 appeared again.
Called the boiler man out who had a look and replaced the Ignition PCB (had to order it from France cos Protherm are so popular(!) (cost £160 inc labour) since the old one was broken, according to his multimeter readings.
Worked for a day, then the same thing started happening again... Blokey came round again, thought it might be the gas valve so ordered one of those, and that didn't arrive until last Friday so we had a v cold Xmas and New Year huddled round a convector heater...
The gas valve didn't make any diff so he ordered a replacement PCB,which arrived over the weekend and was fitted today. This seems to have solved the main problem although there's a few things now which are puzzling me and thought I'd ask on here:
1) Does this sound like the solution to the problem or do you think it will rear it's ugly head again in a few days?
2) Being new to combis I dind't realise that a full flow would only give tepid water, so I've figured out only to half open the tap now in order to get water at a decent temp (that was going to be my first Q)
3) Main problem is we don't have a room thermostat so have to use the timer and controls on the front of the boiler to control the heat. When I use the timer to turn the boiler off at night, the burners go out, but then after a few mins the display trips out to F1. Then, when the boiler is supposed to reignite in the morning it won't cos it's showing F1 so we end up with a cold house. What should happen when the timer turns the boiler off, surely the burners go out, but how then do we get round F1 showing up when obviously there's no flame detected!?
Before F1 comes on, if I manually turn the boiler on again to constant (not timed) then it will reignite fine without having to run the hot tap or anything.
4) Linked to Q3 - if I turn the temp down on the CH temp dial past about half way, the burners go out, and for a while the display continues to show the CH temperature, but I'm fairly sure (if I sat there long enough) that it would trip out to F1 again cos the burners aren't lit.
{EDITED TO ADD}
This morning I noticed, it's not tripping back to F1 when the timer turns off or when I turn the temp down, it's doing it when it tries to reignite. It makes the whooshing sound of the gas being fed through, but instead of lighting after a couple of seconds, after about 6 seconds it goes to f1 and I need to restart... To top it all off, I can't get the CH on without running the hot tap again... so much for being fixed!
Sorry for the v long post, but I'm still learning all this, not really had to deal with plumbing or boilers before!
Any advice or ideas would be gratefully received (yes, I know, I'll get a decent well-known boiler when the time coes to replace this one!)
