Profile of a Drip

[Munroast]

Rather a fancy bird box that i'm turning, it is going to need a drip groove cutting into the underside - but how deep and how wide should it be to work ?

 

[big-all]

not sure if you are going to do that with a router
you would need a fence with 2 points off contact and have to keep them both in full contact whilst waking round and not changing angle as you go
you change angle the groove gets shallower
point off contact lost router cutter go towards the edge
or do you mean your going to turn it then 3mm radius 5mm deep would be my guess

 

[Munroast]

I have turned it on a lathe, I stuck that groove in just as I was finising it, but I don't know if it is deep or wide enough, at this stage it would be very simple to put back on the lathe and make the groove deeper or wider. I want to start oiling it up the morrow (danish oil) so I would rather re cut it before i start that process.

Its a xmas pres and I'm running stupidly late (esp if it is 48 hous between coats) I can speed it up with the hot air gun and a night in the airing cupboard - LOL

 

[HERTS P&D]

Do you sell these?

Andy

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

10x10mm would be ok.

 

[big-all]

if its well oiled the groove you have should be fine ignore my other answer i misunderstood

 

[Munroast]

Do you sell these?

Andy

No, its a one off, never again, I have put far far too many hours into it and its still no where near finished, learnt a few things though which has been good.

 

[Munroast]

10x10mm would be ok.

too big, what I have now is 5 deep x 2.5 wide. Could may be go 7x5

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

7x5 it is then.

 

[conny]

The outer groove looks perfect. It only needs to be wide enough for the water not to track across and deep enough not to wick up.

If, by some strange way, it did get across the first groove there would be so little left that it would not get across the second, inner groove.

Nice bit of turning by the way.

 

[big-all]

and very very nice job looks like iroko pine beech and a bit off oak but again nice job

 

[Munroast]

and very very nice job looks like iroko pine beech and a bit off oak but again nice job

The only wood I know for certain is the Walnut, 100% on that. The lighter stripes is some sort of pine, definitely a softwood, but a very heavy, very hard difficult to work 'softwood', considerably harder than the walnut, that I'm sure we all know is a hardwood. It was a nuisance with the chisel intent in heading towards the walnut - tools in general seem to instinctively know easier ground and often find their own way there unbidden.

The light coloured wood on the lid that does look a little like beech, is not. I don't know what it is, probably a tropical hardwood with its very close grain, a beautiful wood to work with, wish I had more.

There was another piece of softwood near the base that I did not know the species of, its main characteristic was its beautiful smell when cutting.

I would love to be knowledgeable on types of wood, but it is a big learning curve. We have an old boy sometimes comes in, an ex cabinetmaker, he's good at knowing the species and what they are best used for, wish I had half his knowledge, and half his know how too. Doesnt obsess about power tools, makes a lot of use of well sharpened hand tools, and his work is first class.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

not sure if you are going to do that with a router
you would need a fence with 2 points off contact and have to keep them both in full contact

FYI (albeit a bit late - been up to my ears on a rush job). Take the side fence. Apply a sacrificial plywood/MDF auxiliary fence plate. Saw a piece of large dowel/ broom handle and rip in two to make two pieces of D-section material. Fix to face of auxilliary fence plate equidistant from the cutter and you have a fence with two points of contact which will follow a constant curve

 

[Notch7]

too big, what I have now is 5 deep x 2.5 wide. Could may be go 7x5

Ive spent many years making timber windows and around opening sashes I use 6mm dia cutter x say 3mm deep

on external cills I would do 8mm dia cutter x 4mm deep

 

[big-all]

j&k is the man for wood recognition

FYI (albeit a bit late - been up to my ears on a rush job). Take the side fence. Apply a sacrificial plywood/MDF auxiliary fence plate. Saw a piece of large dowel/ broom handle and rip in two to make two pieces of D-section material. Fix to face of auxilliary fence plate equidistant from the cutter and you have a fence with two points of contact which will follow a constant curve

i got that bit wrong j&K it was more asking about the actual drip groove already turned in
but thanks for your get round it looks just up my street lol