Putting in screws in difficult places

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Noticed it's pressing upwards against the pipe join too when all screwed together. Will it damage pipe?
I wouldn't want anything putting pressure on water pipes, as that upwards force will put a strain on all the joints.
While it's probably fine, I still wouldnt risk it.

Maybe count this box as a valuable, educational prototype? Then follow the advice here when building box mark 2?

Make it snug fitting you can push in and out.

[Edit]
And use this opportunity to cut a semicircle out the top where the pipe exits, rather than a square. Looks neater.
 
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I would have made it all the same depth without any gaps between to collect grime, that will be impossible to clean .
Just rewrote previous post had a couple of typos. Meant to say gap between boxing and baton was 5mm not snug
I wouldn't want anything putting pressure on water pipes, as that upwards force will put a strain on all the joints.
While it's probably fine, I still wouldnt risk it.

Maybe count this box as a valuable, educational prototype? Then follow the advice here when building box mark 2?

Make it snug fitting you can push in and out.

[Edit]
And use this opportunity to cut a semicircle out the top where the pipe exits, rather than a square. Looks neater.

I could cut that slot pressing up on joint a bit wider with a jigsaw. 5mm either side
 
I would recommend drilling a clearance hole (and pilot hole and counter sink) in future, especially when using screws near the end of a length of timber. In your last photo the timber nearest to you has split. Which makes me think that you didn't use a clearance.

The clearance hole allows the screw to past through the timber (the hole is 0.5mm larger than the shaft of the screw, it also prevents the timber being pushed away as the screw is tightened). The pilot hole is smaller than the shaft of the screw and helps the screw to drive in to the second bit of wood without forcing the fibres too far apart (and potentially splitting the timber). The counter sink will help the screw head to sit flush with the timber.
 
Not really the OP's problem as such, but I would be concerned about boxing in a TMV that should be periodically inspected/tested.
 
In future:-

Boxing is not structural. Make it up on the bench with glue and hidden internal fixings if required. Hold it in place with a couple of small dabs of grab adhesive. It won't move but is easy to remove if you need to. Sometimes you don't even have to secure - some of my boiler boxing just pushes on to a couple of dowels.

Or just glue it in place with silicone sealant, that stuff holds things in place for many years and can be easily prised apart with little to no damage.
 

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