Radiator moved - air in system.

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Hello
We have just had a radiator moved across the hall in our flat. After the system was drained the plumber had problems getting the system restarted and the water circulating, apparently due to lots of air in high level pipework (our boiler, Baxi Solo 2 PF, is installed right at the top of our ceiling - about 9ft up). The pump burnt out so he replaced that, fortunately heating now working again and we are not shivering in this miserable weather!

BUT there is now very noisy gurgling/ "waterfall" type sounds in the pipes under the floor in one area of the hall, whenever heating is on. It doesnt seem to settle - only stops gurgling when heating is off. Radiators have all been bled lots when plumber was here, and the radiators themselves are not noisy. Not sure how I can to "encourage" the air to move to one of the radiators so I can let it out. I read on an old post that you can turn off all rads except one, to try to shift air to that one radiator. Should I choose the radiator nearest the noise? Am embarrassed to admit have never bled a radiator, and am slightly worried as I dont know how to add water to the system if I do shift the air and the pressure drops.

We have a hot water and cold water tank - not sure if relevant.
Advice greatly appreciated, hope I have provided all necessary details.
Thanks
Cheryl
 
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do you also have a small tank near the big hot/cold water tank (cistern in case softus is watching ;) )
 
I dont think so. We have a small red "edam cheese" thing near the hot water tank, with the pressure guage on it.

Apologies for not knowing ar*e from elbow.
 
Ahhh

then you have a sealed system

near this red thingy do you have a guage with numbers on it?
 
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gas4you said:
Watch it corgi, don't want to sound arrogant and sexist to op :eek: :LOL: :LOL:


WHOAAA

How

I am trying to avoid jargon

any dont you try painting me with your brush Captain Saucy Sexiest

;)
 
Reading is 1.0 (black needle). Red needle is set at 1.2
Also, yes, is silver hose attached to edam cheese.

Wish I had studied something more useful at school.....
 
Are there any auto air vents, or manual air vents on this high pipe work, especially above boiler as this sounds to be the highest point :?:
 
right you have filled the system up

it just sounds like to need to vent (and then re pressurise) your system

do you have a bleed key for the rads?

if not get one (or even better someone with one) and bleed your rads.

to bleed you rads I would advise that you

1 turn off the boiler (ie make sure your prograammer is not on for either central heating or hot water0
2 at the end of the rad (either end just look, or in some cases behind the rad) you will find a little square thing that the blled key fits too
3 put the bleed key on the said square thing and undo it (anticlockwise) being carefull that you DO NOT undo it fully (a turn or two should suffice)
4 you should then hear a hiss which is the air escaping)
5 you will probable need to top t

actually thinking about this and the fact that my fingers hurt, ask someone if they know how to do it, if not get some one in to service your boiler and get them to do it AND show u how

I need a lie down now

:)
 
I dont think so. The pipes run at the same level as the boiler for a while (not above it) and then head down the wall. This is where the plumber thinks he had all the grief after draining the system. The pipes are boxed in, he opened up the box but there weren't any vents.
 
Thanks to Corgiman for advice re bleeding radiators (and presumably having to type out, for him, the bleeding obvious) :)
 
cherylr said:
Thanks to Corgiman for advice re bleeding radiators (and presumably having to type out, for him, the bleeding obvious) :)

lmao

dont forget you will need to top the system up as you bleed

good luck
 

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