Radiators still warm when stat turned off

[hyposmurf]

The boiler is a combi baxi on a pressurised system.I still have problem with air getting into a small hole in one rad,but will fix this when the weather is better.But currently when I turn the stat right down to its furthest point I find I have warm radiators1-2 hours after.The rads arent at their running tmeperature,but still warm,also woke this morning to find that the rads were still warm although stat was off.
Guessing is it likely my stat or divertor not shutting off completely?

If I power off the boiler would this reset the system and then rule out the programmer if the problem is still evident?

 

[GodKnows]

This depends on a few factors, you obviously use the hot water? One or two rads will get warm when DV goes back to CH mode. Pump overrun will put some heat around circuit, depends on the size of the dwelling ie. how far apart the rads are.... Does a washing machine have a hot and cold feed?

 

[Agile]

The boiler is a combi baxi on a pressurised system.I still have problem with air getting into a small hole in one rad,

If its a pressurised system then logic would dictate that if there is any hole in a rad then water will come out!

Why does yours act differently and let air enter into the rad?

Tony

 

[gas4you]

Sounds like the DV stuck. Does the flow pipe under the boiler get warm/hot when you run a tap?

Also I agree with Tony on the point about air ingress

 

[hyposmurf]

The boiler is a combi baxi on a pressurised system.I still have problem with air getting into a small hole in one rad,

If its a pressurised system then logic would dictate that if there is any hole in a rad then water will come out!

Why does yours act differently and let air enter into the rad?

Tony

Yes there is a small seepage of water coming out on the connection to one rad and I have to keep bleeding the system.I probably worded it incorrectly.What I meant to say, if its pressurised ,while the circuit is running I thought some water would exit through this hole & the pressure will go down over time,so topping up with mains water I'd end up introducing new air ino the system,which would end up needing bleeding again.
If this isnt the case with the air then what else could it be,corrosion possibly?
Yes Im thinking the DV could be stuck to.Icant get to the flow pipe under the boiler as its all boxed in.Is there any other test I can do?What if I just put it into summer mode and see if the rads stay warm?Would that indicate that the DV has not shut off completely?

No only cold feed on the washing machine.Yes the system does have overun to dissapate the heat from the boiler, but after 2hrs or an entire night it shouldnt still be trying to dissapate this heat.The property it heat after all is only a 1bedroom flat so rads not far apart.

Is unlikely to be he room stat then?

Thanks for all your replies much appreciated

 

[Agile]

Repressurising brings new oxygen into the system.

The oxygen is absorbed to create iron oxides.

The nitrogen will collect at the top of the rads to be bled out.

Corrosion also produces hydrogen. Often what you bleed out will burn if ignited with a match or lighter.

The sooner you sort out the problems the better. Any normal houseowner calls for help immediately they see any leak however small.

On this forum we see many people who have other ideas and rarely deal with anything quickly. One fellow lost five rads as he did not respond quickly and waited five weeks as he did not believe me when i told him all the rest of his rads would hole within a few days.

Tony

 

[hyposmurf]

There is also some history with this sytem I didnt mention.
The system is 3yrs old this May.
The original installer was called back to fix a seepage from a radiator pipework connection (no drip just the rad pipework is damp when you touch it)I also had a loud noise appear intermittantly fom the boiler when the boiler fired up.The pipework that had some seepage is still leaking,so wasnt fixed by the plumber,the noise wasnt rectified by the plumber either.He just turned the hot water tap on at maximum flow rate and the noise didnt occur so assumed nothing wrong with system.Im past my defects liability now and didnt seem to get anywhere sorting this out before,so will have to sort this out myself.Get another plumber in to rectify it I wouldnt be doing the work itself to the boiler, but would like to see if I can establish what the problem might be beforehand.
Is it possible the DV was faulty before and the noise I was getting at boiler firing time may have been due to DV getting stuck and now the defective DV isnt closing off properly?
I'll try to see if the air beld from rad ignites then,so will hopefuly know if I have corrosion

 

[hyposmurf]

I've left it on the summer setting now for over an hour now with stat turned right down and the rads are still warm.Sound more like the divertor then?

 

[gas4you]

Yes it does from here

 

[hyposmurf]

OK thanks.I just wanted to narrow down what the problem could be before calling a plumber.Rather than not having a clue and getting stitched up by some cowboy.I realise that not all plumber are cowboys,but the last one I had in was, even though he was registered with Corgi.For instance the loud noise on ignition,I wouldve thought that a decent Corgi engineer wouldve at least have looked at the ignition/gas burning mechanism,to check it was at least safe before departing.

 

[Agile]

Any competent boiler engineer would have checked the combustion characteristics at installation with their flue gas analyser. But only5% actually have that equipment as it costs about £800 plus 3140 per annum for calibration.

Now we turn to the householder!

All boilers should be serviced anually and thats another opportunity for the boiler engineer to check it with their FGA !

The noise is usually incorrect combustion on minimum power! But you still have not told us your boiler model !

Only let a service to someone who has the equipment !

Tony

 

[Bambergaspipe]

 

[Bambergaspipe]

Any competent boiler engineer would have checked the combustion characteristics at installation with their flue gas analyser. But only5% actually have that equipment as it costs about £800 plus 3140 per annum for calibration.

You pompous pr*ick, anyone attending a boiler has to have a flue gas analyser, get with the real world. ass*hole.. We know how to calculate the C02 emissions also, haven`t we come on.

It`s also printed out for us stoopid ickle wickle installers.

 

[Bambergaspipe]

Repressurising brings new oxygen into the system.

Who cares?

The oxygen is absorbed to create iron oxides

.

Who cares

The nitrogen will collect at the top of the rads to be bled out.

Don`t care

Corrosion also produces hydrogen. Often what you bleed out will burn if ignited with a match or lighter.

Losing the will to live, don`t want a science lesson, Nurse!

The sooner you sort out the problems the better. Any normal houseowner
calls for help immediately they see any leak however small.

Waffle.

On this forum we see many people who have other ideas and rarely deal with anything quickly.

More waffle.

One fellow lost five rads as he did not respond quickly and waited five weeks as he did not believe me when i told him all the rest of his rads would hole within a few days

.

Bullsh*it. & Waffle.

 

[Agile]

Bamber seems to be drunk yet again!