My Ravenheat combi LS 80? has suddenly stopped firing up, no hot water even on summer setting, and no central heating. checked and cleaned electrodes, still nothing although I have noticed that the c/h/ pump is operative even though room thermostat off. ANY IDEAS (19 months old)
Ravenheat LS combi, nothing!!! freezing cold
- Thread starter paulus171
- Start date
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What possessed you to buy a ravenheat littlestar
Whats the pressure at? Ravenheat say 1.5 bar for these.
Next step
Replace the CH thermistor. If its not the cause of your problem it will be sooner or later. Taking the lead off and replacing it sometimes proves that this is the problem where the earlier PCB's with 2 fuses are fitted. Later PCB's have only one fuse and that trick doesnt work.
You could get wet if you dont follow the instructions. If you don't fancy getting that much involved, Ravenheat will recommend their nearest approved agent but when you get through to them you have to press 2 as if you were a corgi installer cos the people you get when you hit 1 don't have access to the list!
Next step
Replace the CH thermistor. If its not the cause of your problem it will be sooner or later. Taking the lead off and replacing it sometimes proves that this is the problem where the earlier PCB's with 2 fuses are fitted. Later PCB's have only one fuse and that trick doesnt work.
You could get wet if you dont follow the instructions. If you don't fancy getting that much involved, Ravenheat will recommend their nearest approved agent but when you get through to them you have to press 2 as if you were a corgi installer cos the people you get when you hit 1 don't have access to the list!
Ive noticed that the vent pipe is weeping near to the top and this is leaking onto or near the ch thermosister, perhaps this could be contributuing towards a problem.........
And yes the presure is 1.5 although it had dropped to 1.0.
I will try your suggestion and let you know. I think mine has 2 fuses according to the manual.
Why would the pump run when heat not called for though??????
Many thanks
And yes the presure is 1.5 although it had dropped to 1.0.
I will try your suggestion and let you know. I think mine has 2 fuses according to the manual.
Why would the pump run when heat not called for though??????
Many thanks
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When the boiler has power to it, the thermister tells the PCB [wrongly in this case] that the water in the HE is too hot and may damage the boiler. The PCB keeps the pump running until the hot water is dissipated into the system for as long as the thermistor is saying that the water is too hot. If it thinks the water is too hot then the ignition sequence wont start.
Thanks for that sludg, all makes sense. The only problem I am having is finding the part. as no-one seems to know what part no or whatever for this model. emailed ravenheat but no reply so far..........
will keep trying, good job we kept our good old open fire, its scorching hot in here!!!!!!
will keep trying, good job we kept our good old open fire, its scorching hot in here!!!!!!
Changed thermistors (both), still the same pump runs although heat not called for. Also in summer mode (H/W only) open hot tap and c/h pump on boiler runs??? boiler does not ignite.
Ok lets go through some stuff
Have you checked the reset button? ... Theres a white cover to the left of the clock Remove the cover and the reset button is before you..
Have you checked the fuses on the PCB?
Thats the simple and cheap stuff out of the way. You seem to be fairly capable so I will take you further if necessary.
The rather expensive ignition box clagged on to the side of your gas valve is a likely suspect now and potentially a can of worms. The reason being that its often the fan and less often the gas valve that take it out. It sometimes blows a fuse on your PCB but doesnt always work that way.
To progress further you will need to find out if there is mains voltage at the fan
There is a fault finding diagram Here with wiring diagram and a short parts list to help you understand more of whats going on.
Have you checked the reset button? ... Theres a white cover to the left of the clock Remove the cover and the reset button is before you..
Have you checked the fuses on the PCB?
Thats the simple and cheap stuff out of the way. You seem to be fairly capable so I will take you further if necessary.
The rather expensive ignition box clagged on to the side of your gas valve is a likely suspect now and potentially a can of worms. The reason being that its often the fan and less often the gas valve that take it out. It sometimes blows a fuse on your PCB but doesnt always work that way.
To progress further you will need to find out if there is mains voltage at the fan
There is a fault finding diagram Here with wiring diagram and a short parts list to help you understand more of whats going on.
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