Re-Pointing Advice

[KarenN]

As per your advice, I have removed the plaster from whole internal wall sections where the plaster was blown in various areas (rather than just removing the cracks) in order for the new plaster to be applied. However, since revealing the brick work I can see mortar joint voids (ie: either no mortar between bricks, or just alittle remaining or very sandy crumbly mortar). I therefore need to re-point and make the wall more solid BEFORE re-plastering.

This is a 1920s bungalow and lime has been mentioned before as part of the mixture for the mortar....I don't know who told me that or how they know! Would lime be the norm back then???

I would like to know the following:

Could I re-point? It obviously doesn't need to be pretty as it's going to be covered over, but it needs to be solid.

Do I get ready made mortar? Should I get a lime mix?

What is the best method? I've seen re-pointing guns....how easy to use are these?

Also, I've noticed at the corners, where walls should meet, the walls have a gap ie: they don't actually touch - how do I correct that?

Any advice would be useful

 

[trowelmonkey1]

Well depends how bad it is really Karen, generally it's advised and better to rake back the mortar joints so that the render can get into them giving it a 'key' so it could be that the render will do the job for you.

its very likely it would be lime in the 1920's yes, it was the material of choice until after the war, second one that is.

if your mortar is weak and soft it may be advisable to consider using a lightweight gypsum plaster to fill your areas, such as hardwall, i would be a little concerned using a strong cement render with such a weaker mortar but i have to admit there are guys on here with more experience than me so see what they offer as advice.

 

[NikkiZ]

Hi,

I have all the same questions as the OP. You can see the walls not meeting on the right hand side of the image below.

I'm thinking of dot+dabbing some aquapannel on to the wall prior to tilling (i'm going to shift the sink and the cable first)



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

 

[KarenN]

Thanks NikkiZ - looks very similar to my wall problems .... but I'm not sure whether you're an "expert" yourself or if you need advice like me????

Come on builders / plasterers give me some advice here PLEASE!

Do I buy:

ready made mortar for the re-pointing
re-pointing gun (are they any good, can an amateur use them successfully?)
what do I do at the corners?

Thanks

 

[joe-90]

Get someone in. You have zero chance of getting it right by accident. You'll only make a pigs ear of it. Plastering is a skilled job.

 

[NikkiZ]

Thanks NikkiZ - looks very similar to my wall problems .... but I'm not sure whether you're an "expert" yourself or if you need advice like me????
...

I need advice too.

Since taking the photo, I've used a wire brush (attached to a drill) to clean the bricks and I've dug out most of the loose bits.

I spoke to a couple of electricians yesterday. One said he re-pointed his internal brick with ready mixed mortar from Wickes.

The other said I should cover the wall first with thin set cement. The thinset gets between the bricks (sort of like Trowellmonkey said above)

 

[NikkiZ]

Get someone in. You have zero chance of getting it right by accident. You'll only make a pigs ear of it. Plastering is a skilled job.

It's not the plastering we are asking about. We need help with repointing the internal brick prior to plastering or dot+dab

 

[joe-90]

If you are getting someone in - then they will sort it.

If you MUST do it then you only need a bag of mortar and a small pointing trowel.

It's not that important. The whole house will have the same problem if you go looking for it. Can't see what you are agitating about. Every Victorian terrace has the same problem (which isn't a problem).

 

[roy c]

I personally can't see the point of re-pointing the odd brick here and there if the wall is going to get dot and dabbed or plastered. If there are a few bricks with loose or no mortar in them and it is causing a structral fault or crack then it needs to be meshed with ex-metal to maitain the strength. But if it is sound and it is not going to be a wall with water splashing on it (shower or bath) then I would dot and dab it and tile it. That way you can run your p/board up to the other wall and fill the gap. But you could also plaster it like TM. said or float and set it, but either way you would have to put some Ex-metal in the corner to fill the gap. Its not a big job so why dont you get a plasterer in and let him do it and watch and learn for your future DI Y plastering jobs.. Hope this helps....

 

[KarenN]

Having removed old plaster from internal walls (1920's build) I have been repointing where the mortar is powdery. I have been using the ready made just add water mortar - as I wanted correct strength. However, I am pleased with results so far, but sometimes I look at the repointing and feel it looks 'harsh'! I know its all going to be plastered over, but will this type of mortar damage the bricks/breese blocks in time? I want to do what is best for the building so would using a lime mortar mix be advised? If so where do I get some, does it come ready mixed just add water, a big bag that has a life span wouldn't get used in time.

Any help would be good. Thanks

 

[NikkiZ]

Hi karen,

I was told any mortar was ok as my brickwork is indoors and not subjected to the weather.

I used wickes cement mortar. It comes in a bucket ready mix. I put it in all the gaps. I dot-dabbed boards, tiled and the jobs a good-un.

Good luck