Re roof getting done wrong batten size???

Update time. Tiles are on one side of house. Lap is 100mm and gauge is 315 mm. Looks quite good. He's not used tile clips by the way.

Next questions.

At the verge of the house. (The gable wall goes all the way up to the top of the rafters) there are cut tiles obviously as they weren't a perfect measure along the house. These have not been nailed or clipped although a new dry verge system is going to be fit. Is this a problem? Will they need drilling and nailing?

Should clips be used where there is a dry valley and the tiles nail hole has been cut off?

We are supposedly having dry hip and dry ridge systems installed. Now the battens for the hip system look good as they should be but at the peak of the roof there is now no space to fit the rafter batten straps for the dry fix kit as the top battens on the slope of the roof are now fit with tiles on. Is there a system which would not use batten straps or shall i pull him on why the battens are not across the top of the roof in preparation for the dry ridge kit.

many thanks again
 
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Clips are used for the verge and cut valley tiles, the dry ridge can be installed without the straps but why not use them.
 
Update, roofer left for weekend said will finish Monday. Put battens on for dry ridge system. Have managed to get a few photos.


Still adamant that clips are not needed for the cut tiles at the hip and valley is this right?

Also noticed that the dry valleys don't really have wooden support under them. they are solid as the edges have been nailed to battens which run from top to bottom? Is this sufficient too??

What do you think? good or bad? cheers again
 
The eave and verge tiles should be clipped to prevent wind lift, the cut valley tiles should be clipped to prevent them sliding out.

Mind the gas vent still needs a rain collar fitted.

Looks not bad apart from the clips.
 
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That's what I thought. He hasn't done too bad of job apart from those flaming clips but he seems a bit set in his ways and doesn't seem to want to put them on.... grrr. Is it a money thing?? The problem now is putting these clips on now the tiles are down. The scaffold is up until the new year I should get into him to put them on. Is it going to ever be a massive problem if they don't get clipped?
 
The plastic verge caps hold the tiles to a certain degree, the gutter protects the eaves again to a certain degree, theres nothing to stop the small cuts in the valleys slipping through time.

Its a new roof! you are paying a lot of money for someone to install it in an efficient professional manner according to manufacturers specifications.

Anyway a decent storm will have the verges off.

Google clipping patterns for the type of tile and show it to him.

Done it for you.
 
The valley slips can't fall out.

The roof will survive without clips.

The roof will be ok with 25 x 38mm battens.

What the guy has done is best described as adequate. Deffo not belt n braces but nothing to panic about either.
 
The verges definitely need to be secure as those plastic end caps are only useful to keep the birds out in my opinion, I only fitted those once and did not rate them at all so I now use the continuous dry verges.
 
Thanks for the replies lads.

The dry verges are being replaced. I agree with the clips on the verges, personally I think that they need them but all is not lost with that as it should be fairly easy to screw or nail an extra batten with the clip in place to the battens there. But why not do it in the first place?

The hip roof. He is going to clip the unsecured tiles tomorrow apparently after I asked him to so we shall see how that goes.

Next question there is no membrane under the dry valley. He's put noggins/rails upto the top, fixed the membrane to the noggins then fixed the valley onto the rails. Will this ever give problems, there are no support boards too but there never was before with the lead valleys.

In response to noseall. The battens at 38 x 25 may have been sufficent BUT not what British standards recommend for the rafter distance and also not what sandtoft recommend for that type of tile at that distance. So i was correct in getting him to rectify that.

I'm an industrial electrician by trade and roofing is not my thing but by looking on the web some info I see about how the roof should be done is completely different from how he's installed my roof. It looks like it will look nice from the outside when its done but this is why i come to forums like this to make sure the jobs done right. The batten problem was like me telling someone i was going to install a certain size cable lets say for a shower and then being tight and getting cable that wasn't the correct size all to save a few quid. But doing that could bite me on the bum and in his case it has.

many thanks again
 
Update. Tiles all on, dry ridges just about finished. Dry verges secured. Looks well from the outside will try get pics tomorrow.

One question i need answering asap is with regard to no valley support boards and no membrane under the grp dry valley. Am i going to get condensation issues ever as there will be no membrane to ever catch it? Its sopping wet underneath at present and i was hoping that was due to the rain we've had in the last few days. I've dried an area tonight at the top and shall see what it will be like in the morning.

Cheers again.
 

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