remove plaster from walls

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I was looking at the DeWalt D25830K , should this be good enough for the job, and would an 80mm chisel be best?
Maybe better asked in plaster forum.
 
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Not sure which model the 2583k is but I have a 2KG sds from dewalt and it wizzed the plaster off in my house. I used a 40mm chisel because I was too tight to buy another but yes an 80mm chisel will be fine.You probably already know this but make sure whatever you go for has the rotary stop function.
 
Be careful when using an SDS for removing plaster/render, over zealous use & vibration can do a lot of damage to both the wall face & crack the mortar joints on old brick/block walls. A flat bladed shovel works well especially if the plaster/render is blown, failing that good old fashioned lump hammer & bolster chisel.

If removing from external walls be careful you don’t breach changing thermal element regulations; or if you do make sure LABC don’t find out about it.
 
The walls in the house have very old plaster on by the looks of it a cement backing. Would just like to get it back as far as i can to get new plaster on.
 
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The walls in the house have very old plaster on by the looks of it a cement backing.
That’s just a render base, its normal & still best IMO & many others. There is no problem with old plaster as long as it's basically sound.
Would just like to get it back as far as i can to get new plaster on.
Are you sure it needs to be removed? If it’s not blown & in poor condition, you’re just creating unnecessary work by removing it all; a largely sound base can be repaired & re-plastered. If it is shot, as I said, just be careful how you remove it & be mindful of getting caught out by the regulations.
 
Someone else said today why not skim the good walls rather than take all the old plaster off.
Think i will have a good look and only remove what looks and sounds poor.
I guess it would save lots of work, although i feel skimming is cheating a bit.
 
Someone else said today why not skim the good walls rather than take all the old plaster off.
You only need to cut away & remove what is in poor condition & take care of any deep seated cracks in the render base & sometimes in the blocks/bricks themselves; without popper reinforced repair the cracks will open up again. I carry out this sort of repair all the time in the renovation work do.

Think i will have a good look and only remove what looks and sounds poor.
I guess it would save lots of work, although i feel skimming is cheating a bit.
Of course it’s not cheating; there is absolutely no point in removing sound render & plaster; tap it with a metal scraper, unless it sounds hollow or is not physically crumbling it’s fine. Even if the surface looks uneven & rough from years of decorating & DIY hole drilling/filling, as long as it’s basically sound it can be made to look like new; once it’s been repaired & re-skimmed you would never tell the difference. Choose your plasterer carefully though, they need to know what they are doing with render/block repairs & you will need someone more experienced than a “board skimmer”. It won’t be cheap but it won’t be as time consuming or expensive as removing the lot & starting again.
 
Thanks, i will take my time rather than charge in then.

"without popper reinforced repair the cracks will open up again. I carry out this sort of repair all the time in the renovation work do.

How do you go about reinforcing any cracks beneath the plaster in the blocks if i find any?
 
Remove the plaster/render at least 200mm either side of the crack, repair the cracks with mortar, apply steel lath reinforcing over the whole area, re-render and tape before skimming.

If you look in my profile photo albums you will see some examples of the repairs I’ve done inI the past.
 

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