removing load bearing wall

[kgray1]

Hello, I am after some advice on some kitchen alterations I would like to make.

I would like to remove a load bearing wall. The problem is that I would like to not have to build any additional pillars to support an rsj bearing of 150mm on each end, as this would not fit with the planned kitchen design I would like.

My question is, would I get away with 100mm bearing on each end of rsj, span of 3m?

If not, and I need 150mm, could I relocate the supporting rsj to somewhere that I can achieve 150mm? Then join together the overlapping floor joists, which are currently supported by wall which is to be removed, using coach bolts and timber connectors. This would mean that the connections would be unsupported from below. Would several bolts and connectors along the 3 foot overlap stop deflection?

I hope that all makes sense and somebody can provide some sound advice.

Thank you

 

[tony1851]

In practical terms you can almost always have a flush wall - particularly with a small span such as 3m because the loading will not be that high.

It's just that few people will actually question architects, builders, building inspectors etc when they ask for piers each end.

 

[RonnyRaygun]

100mm bearing is plenty as long as the pad stone underneath is long enough to spread the load sufficiently that the stresses onto the brickwork are reduced to allowable limits. It's actually better to have the beam bearing centrally onto a perpendicular pad stone as the load will spread more evenly.

By not having nibs you will also get a better spread of load down to the existing foundations.

Many architects and engineers leave nibs as default as a way of retaining some of the lateral stability given by the wall, but as long as the remaining wall is within size limits and everything is well tied in there is no need to do this.

 

[kgray1]

Thanks for the advice.

Just another couple of questions if I may.

How wide and how thick should the pad stone be?

Should I go to expense of getting calcs done or will a 6" x 4" rsj be sufficient for the job? Nothing directly above apart from floor and furniture.

Do you think that it will get passed by Building Control without calls?

Thanks you.

 

[tony1851]

If it's just floor loading, and on a 3m span, a 152 x 89 should be OK. However, if you don't want the inspector to ask for calcs, it might be worth considering going up a little, maybe a 7x4 or 8x4?
One of those will cost little more than the 6" beam, but if it saves the cost of the calcs???

 

[kgray1]

Thanks tony 1851.

Any thoughts on size of pad stone?

Also, any idea how much calcs may cost if that's what I decide to do? I think I'd rather a smaller beam if poss just for less protrusion for the ceiling.

 

[tony1851]

The size of the padstone depends on (1) the load put on to it by the beam and (2) the strength of the brickwork around and below the pad.

Clearly, I can't see those from here, but as a very - repeat -VERY rough guide, I would think a 225 long pad would be fine, unless your brickwork is complete cr*p.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

And I guess there's always the option of steel columns to support the beam, rather than brickwork?