rendering cellar ceiling

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i have been asked to render a cellar ceiling in sand and cement. i have a lot of experience plastering but never done this before.
i am concerned about how the render will "stick" to the ceiling any advise would be most helpful
 
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Hi Finch,

What's the construction of the ceiling? Is it boards on joists or concrete?

If it's boards then I don't fancy your chances of the boards staying on with the weight of the render.

If however it's a concrete ceiling then a good coat of Thistle Bond It or Wickes (Knauf) Paster Bonding Agent with provide a good bond.

Why do they want it rendering anyway?

Regards

Fred
 
fred,
its a brick vaulted ceiling. the old render has been chipped off.
i was thinking of useing eml but didnt know if this was excessive. i heard that a slurry of pva and cement should be painted on first?
 
i have been asked to render a cellar ceiling in sand and cement. i have a lot of experience plastering but never done this before.
i am concerned about how the render will "stick" to the ceiling any advise would be most helpful
why sand and cement?
 
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I imagine you need to do it in sand and cement because of concerns of dampness or condensation as you are in a cellar. You should never use bonding, hardwall etc in these applications, limelite, sand and cement etc only. Don't skim it either, get a nice sponge finish on it.

Find out first if damp is an issue, as there will be a slightly different mix and way of doing it., and possible seals around services needed. Don't use PVA, unless it is waterproof. SBR is the stuff to use with cement.

You will have no problems with it -sand and cement sticks to bricks whether on a wall, ceiling or floor.

To make it easier, use an 11" trowel if you normally use bigger, as you will find it easier to push the render up onto the ceiling. You will be using slightly different muscles so loosen out before and stretch after to reduce aching (I kid you not - google DOMS)

You must make sure you are forcing then render on properly, other wise it will fall off when you rule/rub up. I see plasterers who just 'slap' plaster on to walls - this will not work with render overhead.


Regardless, make sure all loose is removed and any repairs made. Then brush off with wet broom to get rid of dust and dampen down bricks.

Just apply first coat and scratch it, then next day give it your second coat. You need your finish coat to be fairly uniform thickness, so if it takes more than one scratch coat, do the work to straighten it with them.

You will not be able to float it as such, but after you rule it off, if you use a short piece of timber (say a 3"x2" a couple of foot long - play with a couple of diffferent bits while scratch coat) that will close it in for you will get it good enough to sponge up.

A derby was mentioned in another thread, a short derby (1200mm) is a lovely tool to work on vaulted ceilings.
 
We use ceiling sprayers (45 degee unit) air fed, Used normally with with Decopierre, sticks like 'it to a blanket, up to 20mm thick, just one coat needed if no paint on the existing surface. Also used sharp sand, BS and OPC a few times if no stone or brick shapes to be carved into it. Some pictures .
GALLERY]
 
We use ceiling sprayers (45 degee unit) air fed, Used normally with with Decopierre, sticks like 'it to a blanket, up to 20mm thick, just one coat needed if no paint on the existing surface. Also used sharp sand, BS and OPC a few times if no stone or brick shapes to be carved into it. Some pictures .
GALLERY]

Never sprayed a cellar soffit, but it must be the ideal way to apply.

For tanking, ist slurry by sprayer has got to be a winner !
 

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