Rendering fire recess behind wood stove

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I have a chimney breast, fully open where there has been an open fire.
I want to render and paint the recess then fit a wood stove.There is a lot of burnt on carbon on the bricks
I cannot find a heat resistant wall-board. Maybe expandamet with sand/cement render ANY SUGGESTIONS PLEASE
Also the register plate, any alternatives to steel?
 
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As this comes up so often, I’ve put together this generic post; read the links but not all may apply to you.

You can DIY a stove install but you need to understand the Building Regs (which changed in October 2010), submit a Building Notice & pay a fee. Your LABC will inspect &, assuming everything is OK, issue a compliance certificate; the BI may want to witness smoke & spillage tests. No compliance certificate may lead to difficulties when you come to sell your property; if cannot produce a compliance certificate in the event of a problem, your insurance company may invalidate your policy & reject any claim.

Lots of archive threads on this, & other things you have to watch out for, here a few links for you to read:
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/stove_building_regulations.html
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/BR_PDF_ADJ_2010.pdf
http://www.hetas.co.uk/public/certificates.html
http://www.solidfuel.co.uk/pdfs/buidling_regs_consumer leaflet.pdf
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=183614
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=211524
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=242738
http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=224751

& some more sobering just in case you think it’s all a load of old tosh:
http://www.solidfuel.co.uk/main_pages/news.htm
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...wood-burning-stove-leaks-carbon-monoxide.html
http://www.eveningnews24.co.uk/news/warning_over_heaters_after_norfolk_couple_s_death_1_811099

Also get at least 3 quotes from local independent HETAS installers:
http://www.hetas.co.uk/nearest_member

You might be pleasantly surprised & you should ask yourself if you really want all the hassle & risk getting it wrong; climbing onto the roof with an 8M stainless steel snake on your back is not for the feint hearted!

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Read more: http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=267604&highlight=#ixzz1I6jlicut
 
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It will all depend on what stove you intend installing now or in the future. Boiler stoves (most) don't get as hot as none boiler types.

When I do inglenooks I always go for top spec ie: assume that at some point a large hot stove may be fitted there. For this I use Lime putty mix 3 months before the job (you can purchase this premixed, I alway have some on the go as I use it on a daily basis)

You should clean out the pointing then make sure the area is free from dust and wet down well with water. Less is more with lime application, about 8/10mm then allow to dry wetting alittle when needed, more so with hydraulic lime based mixes.

lime based mixes are better IMO because they are a softer mix and are "self repairing" so to speak. Air line crack will knit back due to the curing process.

Problem you face is that you don't have the time to do it for this winter if you intend to use the stove. It may (will) compromise the render as it will not have time to dry out.

Registerplates come in many forms and this is also down to the heat of the stove, I would stick to steel and if you fabricate one yourself make sure you leave an access door to clean the stack and hose if things go wrong. I have one on the outside of the stack for easy access if we have a fire.
 
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There is additional info about lime render mixes in the links I posted.
 
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