a previous owner decided to build a retaining wall out of two gravel boards stacked on top of each other, the wall doesn't support much weight but would be a pain to replace to change the appearance, can you render on top of these with stainless steel mesh attached, they are the rough type
rendering gravel boards
- Thread starter 05HUGHEST
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not sure about the question,is this a garden wall?
yes, is has a dpm behind to stop water / moisture penetration do you think render will hold or blow off after the first winter
You could fix a dpm to your side as well, then mesh onto that (all s/s or fibreglass) and then render which will have to be waterproofed with a waterproofer (like made by sovereign etc ) or sbr in the mix . The main worry would be rain getting in behind it from the top - is there any way of having something over it which will throw it off, a capping , fillet, flashing etc?
You could use a mastic along the top, but I would not like to rely on that, either behind a bead or along a groove you have cut in.
An sbr slurry, covering 100% of the surface then fibreglass mesh bedded into a scratch coat, then a float coat, all waterproofed, should also work fine.
You need the mesh to bridge the joint.
You could use a mastic along the top, but I would not like to rely on that, either behind a bead or along a groove you have cut in.
An sbr slurry, covering 100% of the surface then fibreglass mesh bedded into a scratch coat, then a float coat, all waterproofed, should also work fine.
You need the mesh to bridge the joint.
why all this dpm,w/p stuff if its a garden wall it dont matter,if its solid ie not swinging in the wind,then i suppose you could render it.w/p two sides and not protecting the top could buy you a moisture trap as micilin says,then it will blow ,must say ive never do any thing the like so my opinion counts for nowt!
If there is soil on the other side, ordinary render will soften and blow after a few years . Before that you will have 'furring 'from hygroscopic salts pulled through with the moisture. Paint will flake and peel off.
It obviously matters to 05HUGHEST if he's asked the question!
It obviously matters to 05HUGHEST if he's asked the question!
and are you going to stop it rising up these gravel boards?,render dont break down cause it gets wet ,ive used stuff that can go 100 m down if you want(incoment 520) tis when it gets trapped then freezes,expands that causes damage,as for the salt ,hose it down a few times they wont come out forever .
w/p mad you lot,wonder why they dont w/p bricks,brickies compo,blocks,slabs ,gravel boards,roof tiles,infact everything?cause its not needed and avoided in most cases,infact its just a cheap trick to control suction,unless your a dampproofer that is!
w/p mad you lot,wonder why they dont w/p bricks,brickies compo,blocks,slabs ,gravel boards,roof tiles,infact everything?cause its not needed and avoided in most cases,infact its just a cheap trick to control suction,unless your a dampproofer that is!
You don't need to worry about it rising up the boards as they will be behind the dpm or the sbr slurry!
The icoment, that you use (I think from waterproofing experts Sika?) is a type of waterproofing additve or bonding agent AFAIK
You've honestly never seen blown render as a result of moisture where there has been no freezing or frost , such as inside a house or cellar?
Why keep hosing off salts when you can eliminate them?
I've seen salts on brickwork coming through for years after a wall was built.
Most people want a job done properly once, with as little maintainance as possible.
I've also gone back to tanked cellars years after they were done, which are now still bone dry, having hacked and scraped off the old degraded render that didn't have any waterproofer.
I'ts not a cure all, but has it's place - and costs much the same as a plasticicer or adding lime.
I never thought of weepholes - they are usually put in over a dpc or lintel as the dpc/lintel causes a build up of water.
Would you butt them against the boards, or have them cut at an angle ?
I suppose you could cut down brickies weepholes to fit?
Would they work here ?- they would not do any harm
Would you butt them against the boards, or have them cut at an angle ?
I suppose you could cut down brickies weepholes to fit?
Would they work here ?- they would not do any harm
wasnt having a pop at you mate,just the way i see things,and noted your points but your going a long way for a poxy garden wall 
wasnt having a pop at you mate,just the way i see things,and noted your points but your going a long way for a poxy garden wall
I know that,
I'm just interested in peoples different experiences - but it's his wall and he might enjoy his BBQ during the World Cup this year even more is he doesnt have to look at the gravel boards!!I did a garden wall for a couple last summer, old render was half blown, some of it you could pick off with your finger with a few cracks in the blockwork. Behind it was a field with the soil backed up the wall.
I hacked off, cleaned and slurried,meshed and rendered, but there was a capping with drip , which as you know makes a big difference.
I'll pop in for a look when I'm back in action and see what it's like.
sorry micilin missed the bit on the seka gear,520 is or was(haven't used any for a few years) a concrete repair mortar,used for skimming smooth faced concrete/repairs,3mm of this tack is equal to75mm of concrete,yes thats right 3 inc of concrete,down side is it cost two arms an three legs but would be perfect for the op
Sika never minded charging for stuff! All their gear is good though.
I worked in a police station about 2 years ago where all the screeded floor ( &wall skirt) in the cells and cooridors were covered in 3mm of some two part stuff that was suppose to be like concrete but I can't remember the name of it, not sika though. The lads doing it were on a great number.
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