Renovation old casement window

19 Aug 2011
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United Kingdom
Hi all

Before I go any further I wanted to check with you all that I am doing the right thing. This is an old south facing window with float glass that was thick with paint that has failed and rot has set in.

So far I have stripped the paint off the frame with a hot air gun and will strip close to the glass with paint stripper. I treated the rot with Ronseal Wet Rot hardener as it was not beyond salvage and I will fill it with Ronseal wood filler.

I have to re-putty and here I am in a grey area. Is there anything i should know about getting the old putty out the easy way or is it just be careful? Do I then treat the rebates with boiled linseed before puttying? This is my first time with putty. :rolleyes:

As it is a south facing window I was going to skip primer and used 2 coats of Aluminum paint followed by undercoat and top coat.

Also, I am not sure if I should use linseed oil paint or solvent based paint.
I hear oil base paints lasts longer and lighter paint colours don't crack as fast as darker ones. :?:

Thanks for any help
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With regard to the removal of the putty all that is really needed is to take care that you dont scratch the glass, and there is no need to apply either a boiled or raw linseed oil. You can if you wish apply one coat of aluminium primer (not paint) before applying your undercoats not forgetting that you must lightly abrade after each coat of paint has been applied.

Linseed oil putty often tends to fail because the rebates have not been primed, hence the oil from the putty is drawn into the timber thus causing premature breakdown of the putty. So you must ensure that they are fully primed before the application of putty.

Now if I have missed something or you need further advice you know where we are.

Good post that from Dec, i had a blow with a glazer replacing glass in georgian sashes, i told him the rebates needed priming once he'd removed the old glass, he insisted he worked for a proper glazing firm and it didn't need doing and they never primed rebates, so i told the client i wouldnt warrant the windows where he'd made replacements. It is absolutely essential to prime rebates for the reasons dec has given. Also worth mentioning that by the book you should let the putty go hard before painting, this does take a while and can be a bit frustrating. If you google there are products available that can be painted much quicker but can't remember the names.
Thanks TheDec and DcDec

I am new to the site, so not sure how to do a reply.

I was told Aluminium paint and i did wonder if it should be primer, so thanks for that. I was also told linseed oil feeds the wood and slows the drying of putty so as to prevent cracking but yes a long drying time c26 days+
Priming the rebates makes sense...ordinary or Aluiminium?

:cry: Afraid glass already scratch by previous moron but i love the float glass so much my eyes ignor the scratches.

DeDec, I don't plan removing the glass, I did the inside of the window in the spring and raked out the loose putty painted linseed oil in the gap and on the dry putty and refilled the gaps and I still have to paint over it. Have I done wrong?

Is there any merit in useing oil base paint over solvent?

This job is so labour intensive I want to get it right so it will last.

Thanks for you help
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Well the application of the Linseed will indeed provide protection to the timber yet it will not offer the the replaced putty the bond of which it requires. Now you have only applied this to the interior of the window and as such you have no need to panic, you have not commited any form of cardinal sin.

With regard to the paint I think that you are becoming confused with regard to pure linseed paints and oil /solvent borne systems, in your case the latter will be the way to go. In simple terms go for an oil/solvent borne system, the solvent only acts as a suspension for the binder and pigment.

Dont know if the terms that I have used here will help you yet as I have said you know where we are. ;)

Thanks TeDec
you make perfect sense, it was hard to get that sticky stuff to stay put on top of linseed oil :LOL:

It was the old fashion linseed oil paint I was refering to v coventional (modern) paint.

I was reading up on linseed paint from Holkham and that sent my thinking should i go that route. I am getting too old to keep painting and they say Linseed lasts longer but i then I am just a week a feble woman....... ;)

Thanks for all your help

I am fully aware of the product contained within your link and perhaps just a few more to, ;) These systems are often termed as eco or friendly yet in your case best left alone.

Take good care now and again like I said you know where we are.


Thank you so very much for all your help TheDec, the grey cloud has lifted and i shall press on, I have six sash windows to do when poor sickly one is finshed.

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