Replacing a bathroom rad.

[amfisted]

I recently posed a question about rearranging my bathroom, and a few posters were kind enough to contribute. Whilst considering my options, (which obviously include "leaving things as they are") I want to replace my old B and Q box radiator with a nice new chrome towel rad. The new rad will probably remain in position no matter what I decide to do with the bathroom layout.

My current rad is 60cm wide, and I'm going to go for the same width in the new unit. I'm hoping I can do a straight swap without having to move any pipework and drain the system, but if this isn't possible, what are my options? I've heard of pipe freezing kits, but are there any other methods of isolating pipework in order to extend/remodel valves and pipes without draining the entire system? The radiator pipework is 10mm microbore copper.

Thanks.

 

[chimpboy]

You could bung the cold feed and vent, this would cause a vacuum allowing you to work on one pipe at a time. odviously there would still be water in the pipe work so you could not solder you would have to use compression or push fit fittings, this would look a bit naff though. If there is enough on the existing pipe work on show you could bend it to suit, don't think there will be though pipework will have to be moved in about 70mm each side. Better to drain down and re pipe to suit wouldn't take that long really.

 

[amfisted]

No, I suppose you're right.

Being inherently lazy, I was hoping there might be a hitherto unheralded method of working on central heating pipework without draining the system, but it looks like that might be my only recourse.

I'll buy the rad, measure it up against the current unit and work out what's best.

Cheers.

 

[Jamesie]

I would deffo drain it down. forget freezing pipes. A) it costs b) any problems, the clock is ticking, and you could end up in a mess. I would think about buying 2 10mm pushfit stop ends (only a couple of quid), as if you have any glitches after removing the old rad, you can cap the tails, and fill the system to use the heating if needs be as its getting colder.

 

[amfisted]

Thank you: then "drain down" it is.

 

[David937]

Remember to check that the output from the chrome towel warmer will have a high enough output to heat your bathroom

 

[amfisted]

I will, thank you.

With reference to draining down, when we first moved in here and I did some minor work on the system, I located what appeared to be the lowest drain cock on the central heating pipework, which was underneath the downstairs floorboards in the hall. I permanently attached a length of garden hose to this drain cock and then out through an airbrick in the subfloor so that when necessary, I could drain the entire system into a rainwater gully.

If, instead of taking up the carpets/ floorboards in the hall to access the aforementioned drain cock, I drain from the cock on the boiler, it will obviously allow me to remove water from the bathroom rad (which is directly above the boiler), but presumably the water will remain in the downstairs radiators and the inverted loop which feeds the kitchen radiator.

As I understand the procedure for refilling, you open the filling loop to refill the system and bleed all rads to remove any air until you're satisfied that the pressure in the system has stabilised. Once that's done, you can turn the boiler back on and check operation. Please correct me if any of the above is wrong or if there's any vital part of the procedure that I haven't mentioned, because its a while since I've done it and last time we had a different boiler.

For info, my current boiler is a Worcester Greenstar Junior 28i.

 

[Jamesie]

Have any of your downstairs rads got drain offs on the valves? If not and you have to drain via your normal way, when you say drain cock on boiler, is it a valve with red cap? i would deffo put drain offs on all your downstairs rads... If you intend to stay there for years that is.

 

[Jamesie]

Your refill procedure is what i do. Dont forget inhibitor.

 

[amfisted]

There is a drain valve on one of the downstairs rads, but its the kitchen rad, and its on the end of an inverted loop travelling under a bedroom floor and down the wall into the kitchen, thus bypassing the solid dining room floor. No drain valves on any of the others.

A brief inspection didn't reveal any valves on the boiler with red caps, but I'll have a proper look later. I still have the paperwork for the boiler so I'll look on there for the location of the drain cock.

This is probably a stupid question, but where exactly would you introduce the inhibitor, given that its a sealed system?

 

[Armo74]

Remove a vent plug from one of the rads make a makeshift funnel and put the inhibitor in through that.

 

[Jamesie]

I was curious if you were draining the boiler via the pressure relief valve (red cap) i was going to say if you do drain if from there, dont. as the valve can be a bugger to reseat properly.
as armo said for inhibitor, tho with the towel rad vent plug off i usually free pour in to there, but what ever is easiest. i have seen some inhibitor with a straw attatchment, most recently the screwfix no nonsense stuff, tho i cant vouch for its quality.