I have a non-vented system with a combi boiler. A downstairs rad has its flow and return pipes in a drop-down loop connected to upstairs plumbing. Both pipes have isolation valves near the rad, but one valve is weeping at the spindle. I would like to replace this valve without draining down the system if possible. Could this be done without much water loss if the lock-shield and control valves at both ends of the rad were closed and the faulty isolation valve then carefully removed? I'm assuming if minimum air gets in to a disconnected pipe (thumb quickly applied to open pipe end, no other air entry point) then minimum water would get out? Or would a freeze kit be essential?
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Replacing an isolation valve
- Thread starter Alec_t
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This is what is usually required on a combi boiler. Turn off both valves, open bleed vent until water stops, then close.
Disconnect the lockshield side, but maybe plug the tail otherwise it’ll drain the rad.
Open lockshield into suitable receptacle until water stops - shouldn’t be that much.
Replace valve, open other valve, then fill and vent if necessary.
Disconnect the lockshield side, but maybe plug the tail otherwise it’ll drain the rad.
Open lockshield into suitable receptacle until water stops - shouldn’t be that much.
Replace valve, open other valve, then fill and vent if necessary.
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