Replacing blade in circular saw

[Deleted member 174758]

I meant a jack of all trades, e.g. a general builder.(a lot of them are former brickies in my experience)

 

[tell80]

Post #24,
Mostly, there's no need to cut cement board with a power tool, esp a circular saw.
I originally used to nick the boards with a utility knife, & then snap them. Later, up to today I use a scoring knife.
However, for cutting out the occasional pattern shape I use, like yourself, a jig saw. But never a circular saw.

 

[tell80]

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[Deleted member 174758]

Mostly, there's no need to cut cement board with a power tool, esp a circular saw.
I originally used to nick the boards with a utility knife, & then snap them. Later, up to today I use a scoring knife.
However, for cutting out the occasional pattern shape I use, like yourself, a jig saw. But never a circular saw.

With respect, the OP is cutting Cedral claddng, so he needs a neat, machined cut - which means a power saw, because knife and snap won't give a neat edge at all. OK, I'd have done his job with a corded mitre saw and class M vacuum (safer, better DX IMHO), but I'd still be sawing it

As to other cases, it all depends on what you are doing. If you are installing anything visible, e.g. exterior wall cladding, or anything required to be air tight, fire proof or sound proof a straight sawn joint is very much more preferable because it requires a lot less post installation work to seal the joints (and less material). The other thing I think you msy be overlooking is material thickness - a 6mm thick Hardiebacker underlayment (in, say, a domestic bathroom) can be scored and snapped, 15 or 19mm Versarock or Versapanel or other (as used for fire compartment work and insulation), can't be - they have to be sawn. Jigsaws have their uses with cement fibreboard, such as for notching round stuff, making cut outs around columns, etc but they are far too slow, too dusty and too inaccurate for cutting full sheets in half, for example.