I have a vented fully pumped central heating system with a Potterton Suprima regular boiler all installed 15 years ago. The property is a small 2 storey 3 bed semi with 7 radiators and a cylinder. I have 2 leaking pump valves that I would like to replace preferably using the Drayton easy drain kit. The pump is located vertically next to the cylinder in a cabinet on the first floor. I guess the FE tank is about a metre above in the loft. I have tested that the bungs fit in the feed and expansion pipes and was wondering if anyone had any advice/suggestions before I commence the job. One specific query is if I should set the 3 position divertor valve to manual while this work is carried out? Also should I use a bit of jointing compound around the pipes before adding the new compression fitting valves? Many thanks for any help as I am very interested in the central heating systems/plumbing but have little practical experience.
Replacing circulator valves using Drayton Easy drain kit
- Thread starter richig
- Start date
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Do the pumps not have gate valves either side of the direction of flow?
So what purpose would the drain kit serve?
I would close all rads, lock off F&E valve, drain off at lowest drain valve, then replace. Or use freeze kit.
I would close all rads, lock off F&E valve, drain off at lowest drain valve, then replace. Or use freeze kit.
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You can use your bungs to do the job. Only remove and replace one pump valve at a time and keep the other one closed. No need to move lever to man. on motorised valve - only necessary when draining and refilling whole system. Yes, smear of jointing comp. on olives always helps.
Also, spend a little more and get quality Pegler pump valves, not the cheap 3 quid ones you poss already have.
Also, spend a little more and get quality Pegler pump valves, not the cheap 3 quid ones you poss already have.
Ok, got the Peglar ones so thats sorted. On the Easy Drain kit it says 'After releasing some inherent pressure in the system with the bleed key supplied,
and building up a vacuum by allowing water to flow for about 1 minute, any
single item such as a pump, valve or radiator may be removed without further loss of system water/inhibitor.'
Could I ask where it means let the water flow from? Should I connect a hose to the radiator drain off downstairs or does it mean something else. Also should I bleed on or all rads to 'release some inherent pressure in the system'?
No need to release pressure on an open system.
After bunging F&E, turn both pump valves off. Remove pump, then crack open open one of the valves a bit until it stops running out into a bucket. Open fully, then if flow still stopped, change valve. Then change other valve with same method, making sure the first valve you changed is closed throughout.
After bunging F&E, turn both pump valves off. Remove pump, then crack open open one of the valves a bit until it stops running out into a bucket. Open fully, then if flow still stopped, change valve. Then change other valve with same method, making sure the first valve you changed is closed throughout.
Ok so no need to use the bleed key that came with the bungs. One last question - any considerations to take when removing bungs. I assume a little air may have entered system during this process. Will bleeding the pump be enough to sort this or will I have to bleed the rads? I don't know if this matters but there is an air separator fitted and what I think is called a vent cap connected to the top part of the heat exchanger that enters the cylinder.
Shouldn't get too much air entering system. Yes, definitely bleed pump just before turning system on, but hardly any extra air will end up in rads.
Thanks a lot for the advice
Don't much fancy doing the job myself now as ive read how difficult it may be to undo the pump unions. Got a quote from a plumber of £25.00 per hour labour but said it may take at least for hours as he will do a partial drain down and he said if he gets air locks when refilling the job may take a long time. Does this sound right to people?
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