Replacing radiator to type 21...pipes not lining up.

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Morning everyone...I have an old double walled radiator (without fins) that I am looking to upgrade to a type 21 which I have been given.
I haven't removed the old one from the wall yet, but upon initial measuring the centres, the new radiator will be about 10mm further out from the wall when hung. Thus not lining up with the pipes. At this stage, I'd like to avoid gaining access to the pipes below the floor due to laminate flooring (huge job getting to this side of the room.
Options?
Are there brackets that sit closer to the wall? Is this advised even if there were?
Any advice would be appreciated.
W
 
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Brackets usually have a short and long side.Universal brackets might help.Angle the rad valves to take up the gap..Fit stem elbows,might be some give in pipes if you pull them a bit..etc etc..,Sometimes a very fiddly job.Depending on how much pipe you have showing etc,easier to start over..If the pipes go straight down into concrete its tricky,,,if floorboards under,,easier,,,unless everthing is tight,under plywood.
 
Webber,
The brackets you use to put radiator on the wall have two sides of different lengths.

You chose which side to use to move the radiator closer or further from the wall (by about 10mm).
Do your brackets have this option?

https://www.diy.com/departments/kudox-radiator-bracket-h-500mm-w-50mm/174418_BQ.prd
Capture.JPG
 
Yes they do. One side is 50mm and the other 35mm But the shorter length is still too big.
Are there even shorter ones?
 
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Brackets usually have a short and long side.Universal brackets might help.Angle the rad valves to take up the gap..Fit stem elbows,might be some give in pipes if you pull them a bit..etc etc..,Sometimes a very fiddly job.Depending on how much pipe you have showing etc,easier to start over..If the pipes go straight down into concrete its tricky,,,if floorboards under,,easier,,,unless everthing is tight,under plywood.

Is angling a rad valve (and pipe) acceptable?
 
Is angling a rad valve (and pipe) acceptable?

Its fine if it don't leak but looks dreadful and I wouldn't get much work if I were to employ it as a solution! If you have enough pipe out the floor to valve, use street elbows to kick it out to where you need... Soldering required.
 
Get these:

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p6...MItcLNmayM3wIVhrTtCh0G4QZzEAQYASABEgI1t_D_BwE

Mark everything up and hanging correctly, then take the brackets off and chisel away the plaster to recess the brackets into the wall and refit.

You could of course do the same with the brackets that come with the rad but that’s a lot of plaster to chisel out.

Done the same myself recently after having the same issue - looks fine.
 
Morning everyone...I have an old double walled radiator (without fins) that I am looking to upgrade to a type 21 which I have been given.
I haven't removed the old one from the wall yet, but upon initial measuring the centres, the new radiator will be about 10mm further out from the wall when hung. Thus not lining up with the pipes. At this stage, I'd like to avoid gaining access to the pipes below the floor due to laminate flooring (huge job getting to this side of the room.
Options?
Are there brackets that sit closer to the wall? Is this advised even if there were?
Any advice would be appreciated.
W

I've come across a similar scenario in the past but with pipes going into a concrete floor so there was literally no movement in the pipes. Got round the problem by marking the shape of the bracket on the wall chipping out the plaster, which allowed the new radiator to be lined up perfectly with existing pipes. Fit brackets and fill around to make good, even though nobody will see it behind rad.
 
Get these:

https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p6...MItcLNmayM3wIVhrTtCh0G4QZzEAQYASABEgI1t_D_BwE

Mark everything up and hanging correctly, then take the brackets off and chisel away the plaster to recess the brackets into the wall and refit.

You could of course do the same with the brackets that come with the rad but that’s a lot of plaster to chisel out.

Done the same myself recently after having the same issue - looks fine.

Good idea if it's a solid wall.
Not if it's dot&dab or stud.
 

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