Replacing timber suspended floor

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11 Dec 2013
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Manchester
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Moved into a house which has had woodworm in the suspended ground timber floor, mostly in the kitchen but some of hallway too. Half of the kitchen subfloor is broken-up chipboard anyway, so just replacing the lot.

Originally there would have been 170x22mm finished size T&G timbers running all the way through the kitchen, under the stud wall into the entrance hallway, so plan A is to dovetail existing non-rotten boards in the hallway. However, seems getting equivalent replacements isn't going to happen.

Plan B is to use something like WBP ply or HardieFloor (looks fancy---has anyone tried it?) in the kitchen, stop at the joist that supports the stud wall between kitchen and hallway (admittedly there wasn't a joist under it before, but there will be!). Then deal with the hallway separately, at least will have a kitchen again.

Plan C is to replace all the way through with different size T&G, somehow propping up the staircase and multiple door frames whilst doing it. Doesn't sound like a lot of fun.

What's going to be the result of doing something like B, i.e. having a joist down which the floor isn't interlocked? Okay with beaucoup noggins to the surrounding joists or a definite no-no?

If I did need to do it, how does one replace a floor that has a staircase on top, ideally without getting a staircase on my head?
 
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how does one replace a floor that has a staircase on top, ideally without getting a staircase on my head?

If it's a straight-flight staircase. it will only be supported top and bottom, and along one wall. It would not be too difficult to prise the boarding from under the bottom string
 
how does one replace a floor that has a staircase on top, ideally without getting a staircase on my head?

If it's a straight-flight staircase. it will only be supported top and bottom, and along one wall. It would not be too difficult to prise the boarding from under the bottom string

It is a straight flight with a dog-leg, the last few steps at right angles. Prising out the boards looks do-able, so the bottom of the string furthest from the wall won't be holding the weight?

Thanks for the quick reply!
 
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It will be holding some of the weight, but if it's only a few treads it will be minimal.
 

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