Restoring wooden chest of drawers

[ag359]

Hi there

I have a fairly battered old wooden chest of drawers that I'd like to restore. I inherited it from a friend, so have no idea (a) what it's made from, or (b) what finish is currently on it, but i've included a couple of pictures. I think it's solid wood, and I think it's been waxed rather than varnished. There are lots of whitish marks, water marks/rings etc.

What is my best bet for making it look a bit more respectable? It doesn't need to be perfect, and I'd rather keep a wood look rather than painting it.

Any suggestions gratefully received!

Thanks...

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[ladylola]

I'm having trouble working out what type of timber it is as it looks quite uniform in colour without much in the way of figuring.
That aside the top looks as if it would be better cleaned off and rewaxed. I'd sand the top and finish with either fine (150-240+gritsize) sandpaper or better still scrape with a cabinet scraper and either apply a coloured wax which would be the simpiest solution assuming you can get a match or to try staining and then waxing although that will be a bit more tricky.
For the rest of the cabinet I'd apply clear (or maybe a light golden coloured) wax with very fine wirewool and buff up to finish.
I'm sort of glad you don't want to paint it, I've done the "chabby chic " look for people but can't say I'm a big fan of it personally.

 

[ag359]

I'm having trouble working out what type of timber it is as it looks quite uniform in colour without much in the way of figuring.
That aside the top looks as if it would be better cleaned off and rewaxed. I'd sand the top and finish with either fine (150-240+gritsize) sandpaper or better still scrape with a cabinet scraper and either apply a coloured wax which would be the simpiest solution assuming you can get a match or to try staining and then waxing although that will be a bit more tricky.
For the rest of the cabinet I'd apply clear (or maybe a light golden coloured) wax with very fine wirewool and buff up to finish.
I'm sort of glad you don't want to paint it, I've done the "chabby chic " look for people but can't say I'm a big fan of it personally.

ladylola, thanks very much for your response. I'm afraid I don't know what type of wood it is either...

Possibly a stupid question, but why do you suggest two different methods for the top and for the rest? Wouldn't it be better to do the same thing to the whole piece, so that it all matches? I think the front probably looks better in the photos than it actually is - in reality it's all a bit scruffy (although the top is worse).

Also, when you say "sand the top and finish with either fine (150-240+gritsize) sandpaper", should the first sanding be with just normal coarse sandpaper? Presumably the fine sandpaper is to then make it nice and smooth before waxing?

Thanks, and sorry for stupid questions!

 

[foxhole]

I would use a hot iron over a cloth first , this removes water stains and softens wax, I prefer paint remover to remove wax , wide blade scraper to remove stripper and wax then clean with 000 wire wool and white spirit [not water as it will raise the grain].
This should leave you with the original top which you can then decide if it needs sanding. If not it can be rewaxed with a clear wax unless the removed wax appears to have a pigment.
The rest of the unit can be treated in a similar fashion but remove metal work before-hand.
The finished result will reflect how long you are prepared to spend on it.
I use a car polishing machine to save elbow grease when it comes to applying polish.

 

[ladylola]

Possibly a stupid question, but why do you suggest two different methods for the top and for the rest? Wouldn't it be better to do the same thing to the whole piece, so that it all matches? I think the front probably looks better in the photos than it actually is - in reality it's all a bit scruffy (although the top is worse).

Also, when you say "sand the top and finish with either fine (150-240+gritsize) sandpaper", should the first sanding be with just normal coarse sandpaper? Presumably the fine sandpaper is to then make it nice and smooth before waxing?

Thanks, and sorry for stupid questions!

The two different methods aren't really that different in reality. I suggested a simple waxing of the main carcass because it does look pretty much ok in the pictures and just needs a brighten up.
The top as you say is worse and it does look a bit like water damage possibliy from something spilled and I'd be surprised if a quick going over would revive it.
When it comes to the sanding I wouldn't touch it with anything coarser than a 120 grit to begin with. f you use something rough and end up with deep scratches it will only increase the amount of work you have to do. When you sand if you have dust then it's most likely to be a varnish of some sort but if the sandpaper clogs up straight away then it's more likely to be wax and I'd revert to a scraper. You can also use a freshly cut piece of glass to scrape if you are careful with it and don't have a cabinet scraper.

 

[Norcon]

Can anyone explain why the top drawer handles are fitted over the decorative beading groove?
Hand cut dovetails (with lie neilsens finest) on the drawers on this piece? I'd say not.

 

[ladylola]

Can anyone explain why the top drawer handles are fitted over the decorative beading groove?
Hand cut dovetails (with lie neilsens finest) on the drawers on this piece? I'd say not.

Design feature?

 

[ag359]

Can anyone explain why the top drawer handles are fitted over the decorative beading groove?
Hand cut dovetails (with lie neilsens finest) on the drawers on this piece? I'd say not.

I understood about three words of your post in total, but I think you're saying it's a pile of junk! probably right, but I'm fond of it anyway...

 

[stevethejoiner]

I would say the drawer fronts are of solid oak as I think I can identify the typical oak fleck in the pictures, although it is not that clear

However the top will almost certainly be a thin veneer possible fixed on ply. The reason I say this is because of the planted moulding running along the front and down the sides of the top.
You should be able to check this at the back because the moulding does not run around the back and you may be able to see edge grain of the ply or a block board material. Also, take out the top drawers and look at the underside of the top.
A solid hardwood top would have a machined moulding detail not a planted moulding. Even a solid pine top would not have a planted moulding fixed down the sides of its end grain as the two materials would shrink at different rates and separate and even worse may cause the top to split.

So if solid drawer fronts I would clean of old wax with vinegar and re-wax. You can apply wax to 000 grade wire wool and buff up with a lint free cloth, easy, cheap, and affective.

As for the well stained top. If it is a veneer you will be limited as to how much you can sand it, and with such bad staining you probably wont sand the stains out without going through the veneer.
I would vinegar it and wire wool it first, if the stains stay then use well diluted bleach on the whole top, lesser diluted bleach on the stained areas. Neutralise with vinegar and water and then re stain and wax.

 

[matz]

This item will 99percent be solid timber and almost certainly satin walnut. Don't sand or scrape the top unless as a last resort. Just use stripper and wire wool, doing sAme process over entire piece. Biggest error people make furniture refurb is sanding .... Don't do this! There is some bad advice in this thread but not foxhole....

Ps
Vinegar and wires wool and you get a mass of black spots and marks