Resurfacing an office/bar work surface

[Redondo]

I inherited an outbuilding with a fairly cheap and shoddy desk which I've put up with until now.

I'm using it now as an office but it's morphing into more of a man cave/bar type affair. I'd like a smoother finish to the desk (you can see the rough pine & gaps in the photos). What would be the easiest option for someone with limited DIY skills? I was thinking of some thin MDF over the top else replace all the boards with gaps between them and fit a single piece of MDF.

NB - I have no carpentry power tools....not skills for that matter!

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View media item 106107

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You will probably find that if you attempt to glue another later onto the desk, such as hardboard, MDF or thin plywood, that the entire desk top will start to curl up in due course. Our forebears (and even my mum) used to cover old tables with table cloths or oil cloths, which may work for you. Alternatively what about sanding the top, sealing with a couple of coats of clear semi-matt lacquer, then filling the gaps between with clear silicon sealant, smoothed off carefully with a "silicon finger"?

 

[Redondo]

You will probably find that if you attempt to glue another later onto the desk, such as hardboard, MDF or thin plywood, that the entire desk top will start to curl up in due course. Our forebears (and even my mum) used to cover old tables with table cloths or oil cloths, which may work for you. Alternatively what about sanding the top, sealing with a couple of coats of clear semi-matt lacquer, then filling the gaps between with clear silicon sealant, smoothed off carefully with a "silicon finger"?

Thanks, that's a great idea - sanding smooth then sealing - maybe some kind of varnish even. Is there a sealant for the gaps that dries to a hard finish unlike bathroom sealant?

 

[foxhole]

Single sheet 18mm Mdf , get it cut for you, very easy fix and a coat of danish oil will seal.

 

[Redondo]

Single sheet 18mm Mdf , get it cut for you, very easy fix and a coat of danish oil will seal.

Thanks - do you mean as a replacement or to fit over the top of existing?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Is there a sealant for the gaps that dries to a hard finish unlike bathroom sealant?

The problem is that timber moves, so if you do put a hard sealant in between two pieces of timber (which may or probably won't be well fixed together) it will almost invariably crack at some point or another

 

[foxhole]

Thanks - do you mean as a replacement or to fit over the top of existing?

You can just drop on top.

 

[Redondo]

You can just drop on top.

Thanks, presumably just sand existing surface flat and wood glue new MDF in place.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If you glue it you run the risk of it curling upwards (like I said before). Screw it down, or better still screw it from the underside. Just check your screw lengths carefully - you don't want the points piercing the surface

 

[Redondo]

If you glue it you run the risk of it curling upwards(like I said before). Screw it down, or better still screw it from the underside (just check your sctew lengths carefully)

noted, thanks.

 

[mattylad]

And if MDF predrill with a small pilot bit (again check the depth).

 

[lynchnigel]

What are you going to do with the doors?

 

[foxhole]

What are you going to do with the doors?

Probably open and close them?

 

[lynchnigel]

Paint them? Resurface them, keep them the same? Oil them (and the hinges ha!) (As well as open and close them)