Retrofit Bifold / Sliding Door Sill or Trim

[Markmero]

Hi, we had our sliding doors fitted a couple of years ago before we had issues with the builder that we were using. There is no sill beneath the doors which means there is a slight gap underneath which is packed. There is then a drop to the dpc and brickwork.

I’m looking for a solution and any suggestions please - would a aluminium corner pressing be the best option and if so, how would it get attached to the brick below? Cheers

 

[Markmero]

Anyone have any suggestions on this? Thanks…

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Do you get any issues with water/damp ingress? And if so presumably this is a purely cosmetic solution to hide the dpc?

 

[Markmero]

Hi Freddie, thanks for the reply. No water issues, so it is just a purely cosmetic piece to smarten up the underneath of the door and the brick.

 

[crank39]

First off don't remove the packers, unfortunately they'll have to stay in place now but they need chopping off flush with the door, in the areas where the expanding foam is and comes close to the front face then scrape out as much as you can potentially only 2 inches back under the door, then I'd buy some upvc bullnose capping like this.....

Anthracite Grey Smooth Capping Board - Length 5m x Width 150mm

Prevent damage to fascia’s and soffits with Eurocell's 9mm weatherproof UPVC capping boards. It’s a cost effective alternative to freshen up a home’s exterior. Easy to clean and attached directly on top of existing boards, they provide support to gutters, protection for roofs – and a...

www.eurocell.co.uk

Its 150mm deep so may want slicing down by half to 70mm ish and then slide it under the door, you will have to offer it up and mark where the packers are and notch the capping board out, removing the packers would be easier but they're supporting the door and track. Before sliding the capping in pump the gap with general purpose Low Mod silicone then slide the capping in, the capping comes in 5m lengths so it looks like you'll need 2 lengths, it's also 10mm thick so make sure you have that gap, looking at the pictures it looks like you will, put the joint in the middle for aesthetics and use a jointing cap, for each end super glue an end cap on to finish off, you may also want to seal along the top of the capping where it meets the frame to stop water tracking backwards under the frame.

I suspect there was a cill supplied with the frame but they chose not to use it because it meant the threshold was above the FFL and against the customers wishes

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Its difficult to see what else could be done there. Matching aluminium would look smarter but it's much more complicated to make that work and look good, if at all.

 

[crank39]

You could potentially use aluminium but I suggested foam filled pvc as its easier to work with

Aluminium Window Cill 130mm x 3m | Gutter Centre

130mm aluminium window cill with drip detail, 3m length, powder coated to BS standards. 6 RAL colours, durable, weatherproof & easy to install. Order now.

guttercentre.co.uk

 

[foxhole]

Colour matched uvpc trim , quick and easy.

 

[Markmero]

Thanks to the help I now have a clear plan and will go down the upvc route. As suggested I will remove the foam under the door threshold and use CT1 to secure the upvc trim under the door threshold. Re the DPC trim, would you cut this out and bond the pvc to the brick/mortar underneath? Or would you bond the DPC to the brick and then bond the trim to the DPC? Cheers

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Think I'd be inclined to just rely on the big gloop of sealant holding the back of the cill in place where it tucks under the frame. How far can you slide it into the gap?