Roof bodge correction- best way forward

Oooh oooh ooooh ooooh I've just thought of the Perfect Bodge that will fix this (and still allow me to treat myself to a table saw)

I need to check the rafter lengths again but I'm fairly sure they're 3 metres or that sort of area- I could make sprockets the full length of the rafter!

Except I need to check what that does to the roof pitch- exposure is moderate (south facing), pitch is already fairly shallow. And check that the rafters are straight- the roof pitch looks constant (except for the lashup at the eaves) but that might be concealing some more airgaps between slates and battens

Job for tomorrow- too dark for the ladders now.
 
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That is actually a good fix and half the cost in timber than planting 2x2's on without affecting the ridge. A lot of work mind. Dropping the fascia down the wall and cutting off any proud bit of brick with an angle grinder and diamond disc still needs some consideration as angle grinders are cheap compared to a table saw - But if you really would like that saw ;)

If it makes you feel any better a local builder got it wrong the other way round. Used a single straight pitch ridge to eaves when extending a sprocketed roof. It is still like it now years later! Just a few doors away and I showed the owner at the time in case he could not see from his garden. You can see the left side roof with the bottom four courses flatter where the sprocket is


Same job same builder, first attempt roofing a single storey bit Note tiles actually laid with a backfall!

 
Loving the pics- the left hand roof in the first one looks similar to the bottom 3 or 4 course of mine (with the ski jump effect). And that 2nd one shows perfectly why certain tiles have a minimum pitch requirement!

I'm no roofer (just an enthusiastic amateur) but current setup bears zero relation to Marley's instructions for using their fibre cement slates. I suspect whoever put it on used traditional slate laying techniques- there is method to it, it is just a bit odd and a bit shabby when viewed close-up. Plus the 60mm galvanised nails through slates and into the 20mm battens amused me.

To be fair, the main roof itself (despite the lashups) has been fairly waterproof. It is the boundaries (chimney and abutement- cement fillets used, no sign of any soakers - and the valley) where the problems have been.

Anyway- if I had faith in the brickwork on the front elevation I'd take an anglegrinder to the top course. But my experience with repointing a chimney on this house (which ended up with it coming to pieces down to the ceiling line with very little hammer work required) tells me to leave the bricks alone!

Whatever I end up doing, pics will go up here- probably won't get to that job til March, I'd rather wait til then and get a scaffold up (mainly so I can stack the slates at roof height instead of handballing them all up and down a tower). I have plenty to keep me amused til then.....
Ta for all your help, especially that Eternit flickbook- very handy.
 

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