Running An Electrical Cable Along An Outside Wall

[John Peden]

I'd like to install a new socket in my kitchen on an outside wall. The nearest socket that I could run power from is on an adjacent wall and the path of least resistance (I think) is to drill through the wall and run the cable outside.

This would avoid having to channel through the plaster in the kitchen and then try to patch and paint over it.

Are there any issues to this approach? Would I be OK to use standard electrical cable and just secure it to the wall?

 

[Bonni]

Oh dear.

 

[John Peden]

Oh dear.

Well, what do you suggest then? Armoured cable? Chasing the cable through the plasterboard?

 

[seasickstevie]

Would I be OK to use standard electrical cable and just secure it to the wall?

Not really.

Coincidentally, I've just done a job with the exact same problem, and gone about it in the way you've just suggested.
It's strange that after many years in the trade, I think it's the first time I've ever adopted this approach for internal / interior electrics. The only difference being, I used 'outside' cable - as in 'FP200'.

As long as it's not vulnerable to 'mechanical damage', you don't need armoured. FP200 should be ideal.

 

[Bonni]

Someone changing a socket, switch, ceiling rose etc.. is usually not a problem. Installing a circuit or spurring off is a different kettle of fish. When dealing with such things in bathrooms and kitchens, you really should be Part P qualified. If you're asking if the wire needs chased or ran outside, I would suggest an electrician because wires should run at specific angles etc..

Personally, chase the wall but, get an electrician is my advice. I renovate and build properties and I can do every trade apart from two areas; electrics and boilers/gas. There are many regulations.

Once, I drilled behind a cooker, 6 inch to the left and 12 inches down below a socket and I hit the cable. Whoever installed the socket ran the cable at 30 degree angle which is a no no, obviously a DIY'er.

 

[seasickstevie]

... you really should be Part P qualified.

No such thing.



(We know what you mean though)

 

[John Peden]

OK, so in simple terms, this is a job for a spark and the cable should probably be chased through the interior wall.

 

[conny]

If the socket you are connecting to/from is on an adjacent wall you will have to go directly up into the ceiling void and drop down directly in line with the new socket to comply with 'Safe Zones' regulations. If you have a suspended wooden floor of underfloor void you may go down and then up instead.
You cannot go horizontally around a corner especially if they are at different heights.

 

[John Peden]

If the socket you are connecting to/from is on an adjacent wall you will have to go directly up into the ceiling void and drop down directly in line with the new socket to comply with 'Safe Zones' regulations. If you have a suspended wooden floor of underfloor void you may go down and then up instead.
You cannot go horizontally around a corner especially if they are at different heights.

This might be a non-starter then. The ceiling void is not easily accessed as we have plasterboard ceilings in the kitchen and a tiled bathroom floor above. There is no cellar space below the kitchen but it does sit on a void of some sort, but again this isn't easily accessed.

What about if the socket is installed on the same wall? There is less room to do so but we could possibly get away with it.

The only other thing I can think of is to connect a power strip to the existing outlet and then secure the cable to the wall so that it is tidy and we have a power outlet where we want it.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

If the socket you are connecting to/from is on an adjacent wall you will have to go directly up into the ceiling void and drop down directly in line with the new socket to comply with 'Safe Zones' regulations. If you have a suspended wooden floor of underfloor void you may go down and then up instead.
You cannot go horizontally around a corner especially if they are at different heights.

Huh? Each socket marks the safe zone up to the corner. Any difference in height can be dealt with within 150mm of the corner.

 

[John Peden]

Huh? Each socket marks the safe zone up to the corner. Any difference in height can be dealt with within 150mm of the corner.

I think you're right, assuming this image is accurate:

I could run a cable horizontally from the low socket on the first wall, to the corner of the room and then vertically to the height of the socket on the adjacent wall. At that point I could run the cable horizontally to the socket.

The alternative would be to run the cable vertically to the ceiling (but not into the ceiling void), horizontally around the corner and then down to the new socket. This wouldn't be as desirable as it would mean chasing a longer route through the plaster walls.

 

[DetlefSchmitz]

Yes, you've got the idea.

 

[Risteard]

FP200 should be ideal.

Not really. Hi-Tuff would have been infinitely more sensible and appropriate.

 

[JP_]

I've seen them go outside ... surely safe zones are still complied with, plus, you can see the cable. Is it really so bad?

 

[conny]

Huh? Each socket marks the safe zone up to the corner. Any difference in height can be dealt with within 150mm of the corner.

Yes I'd agree with that but from someone who's come across cables going in expected routes to then find they suddenly go off at an unexpected tangent, (i.e. cables start going horizontal to what you believe is the socket further along the same wall, so you go to mount a cabinet where you now think it's safe to do so only to discover that of 2 cables running together one has gone off at 45 degrees into a corner recess then vertically to disappear into the ceiling void right where you have just decided to drill!), so from a personal point of view for me it's either straight up/down or in line horizontally without going round corners. Also bear in mind a corner can be a very tight radius.