Sagged gate on metal posts

[sofaman]

Hi,

Our front gate has sagged such that it no longer closes - top is ~20mm closer than bottom, and spirit level suggests the movement is on the hinged post (not surprising due to the weight of the gate, though the latch post is bang up against a drystone wall).

I think I'm gonna have to dig it out and reseat it in postcrete? It looks like it was put in a long time after the drystone wall so not sure what to expect - the current postcrete base would not be under the wall, or possibly excavated out so it is in the wall? That would be a much harder job to get out.

I did think of drilling through the post into the wall, insert resin + threaded rod, but the hole would need to be 12mm for 8mm rod, the nut would be on the outside and it'd start rusting through pretty quickly. Insane, or not?

Post is 50mmx50mm

IMG_20200728_163318

• sofaman
• 29 Jul 2020

IMG_20200726_181731

• sofaman
• 29 Jul 2020

IMG_20200728_163849

• sofaman
• 29 Jul 2020

Thanks,
Steve

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I did think of drilling through the post into the wall, insert resin + threaded rod, but the hole would need to be 12mm for 8mm rod, the nut would be on the outside and it'd start rusting through pretty quickly. Insane, or not?

That is what I would do. Rusting will not be a problem, but you could buy galv rod and nut if it bothered you.

It doesn't look as if there is enough space, but it's always a good idea with a gate, to make adjustable hinges - Eye bolt, with two nuts, dropping onto a pin fixed to the wall or post. Eye bolt goes on the gate, with a nut either side, then you can adjust the nut position to align the gate.

 

[JohnD]

nut would be on the outside and it'd start rusting through pretty quickly.

Stainless steel.

The gate you show is quite light, so the lean has probably been caused by urchins swinging on it.

if you ever decide to fit a new gatepost, dig out both sides at the same time, and also a trench between them where you can cast a concrete "sill," preferably with reinforcement, linking the concrete bases of the two posts together.

This will brace them, and prevent them from leaning together (as is common with heavy gates) and give a firmer footing. Pairs of tall gateposts benefit from a lintel across the top which braces them.

For neatness, you can use wooden formwork to give the upper face of the sill flat, straight sides. The formwork only needs to go a few inches below ground level, it doesn't matter if the underground part is a shabby lump. The same applies to the concrete round the posts.

Examples:

(you can buy it cut to size)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M3-M4-M5-M6-M8-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-THREADED-ROD-ALLTHREAD-STUDDING-DIN-976

 

[Stivino]

I think you idea is ok.
If you have access to a welder, you could weld a 90° bracket to the post, drill through it and bolt it to the wall at the top.

 

[conny]

If you want a cheap, quick fix you could bolt a small right angled bracket to the inside of the post and then drill, plug and screw to the brick wall.
Cut a piece of stout timber to force between the top of the two posts to help push the deformed one back into position while you repair it.

 

[conny]

I think you idea is ok.
If you have access to a welder, you could weld a 90° bracket to the post, drill through it and bolt it to the wall at the top.

LOL Beat me to it.

 

[bernardgreen]

I did think of drilling through the post into the wall, insert resin + threaded rod,

That would be my method.

 

[sofaman]

I was worried about the post rusting through water ingress, rather than the new hardware. Hadn't thought of eye-bolt - yeah there is not enough room to bring in the top hinge by 20mm.

Seems like bodging with resin/rod is a goer - need to pick the right spot into a reasonable size/sound drystone stone...

 

[Stivino]

I've had another idea.
Drill through the post at the top, at right angles to the gate. Then you could bolt one or two right angled brackets to the top of the post. That will allow you access to drill directly into the stone and use rawlbolts for a good solid fixing.

 

[bernardgreen]

Seems like bodging with resin/rod is a goer

It is not a bodge, it is almost an invisible repair. Only the nut would be seen.

First use an ordinary nut to pull the metal post back against the stone wall.
Then jam a length of wood between the metal post to keep the metal post against the stone so the nut can be removed.
Cut the studding to suit a domed nut.
Fit the domed nut to hold the metal post in place.
Remove the wood.

 

[sofaman]

Ah yes - the stud between post and wall would not be visible as the post would end up being next to it.

Hadn't thought of using a nut then wood as a temporary way of get the post into exact position. Was just going to use a nut then cut off the remaining stud.

Domed nut would be much better.

I need a lot force to get the post upright, so guessing the postcrete base has just moved over time - probably insufficient amount used/doesn't got under the wall itself etc.

Need to look at domed nuts to ensure enough threads to cope - maybe M8 is too small.

Any recommendations for resin, esp for low quality limestone? Looks like premix in a can is simpler if there is a long enough and thin enough nozzle to go through the post.

Finally, advice seems to be +4mm for the hole diameter vs stud, and make sure it is thoroughly clean (only get one chance

 

[bernardgreen]

I need a lot force to get the post upright,

Use a car jack horizontally to force the post back into place and then brace in place with timber before drilling.

 

[sofaman]

Yup - I can cut the bracing timber to the length required. Might need to shim if it compresses a little. That is fine, and I can jack using different timber if won't move far enough to slot in the brace.

My concern is ensuring big enough domed nut not to strip its threads (big enough and not made of cheese). I'll prob be happier once I have one in my hands.

 

[bernardgreen]

My concern is ensuring big enough domed nut not to strip its threads

Leaving the "ugly" nut on for a few weeks would ( maybe ) force the foundation of the post to move in the ground and remove the strain on the post. Then the studding can be cut and the domed nut fitted.

 

[sofaman]

Thanks - sounds like a good plan.

Now looking for long/thin resin nozzles - not sure how much stud I need in the wall - maybe 100mm?