Scissor Lift

[IJWS15]

But your insurance might not pay out if it transpired that it was your incompetance that caused an accident (in both cases)......

Fair comment, and of course you are right, although it would actually need to be poor work. So many things nowadays seem to relegate us to the presumption that everyone is only as capable as the lowest common denominator. Safest approach I guess, but I find it somehow sad also.

The work on the car is checked every year as part of the MOT - wiring only has to be checked once.

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[stillp]

If this lift is being used in connection with employment, including self-employment, then it will be subject to the Lifting Operations and Lifting Equipment Regulations (LOLER) which will require regular inspection by a competent person.
If for personal use at home (lucky b*****) then inspection would still be a good idea, particularly if it is second-hand. These things can be lethal.
Your local tyre depot can probably put you in touch with a suitable inspector.

 

[shedbang]

Thanks for all your words of warning. I sort of feel compelled to answer.

It's a new mid-rise lift which means it lifts the car about a metre. It's for personal use and there are companies that sell quite happily to diy mechanics (and I have to say, provide excellent telephone support). The ramp comes ready to use with no assembly other than connecting the hydraulic hose. The mechanical side is very simple. Two big hydraulic pistons, with a hydraulic release valve, and an automatic shut valve in the case of rapid pressure loss (e.g. if a pipe blows). The lift locks into place mechanically using a simple steel tooth retaining system that needs compressed air to release it. You would need to be simultaneously activating the air line (an active safety feature), as well as having a failure in both the release valve (a passive safety feature) and the shut-off valve (another passive safety feature) for the lift to drop. Or, maybe, one of the scissors would have to catastrophically snap, but even then, at least two pieces of metal would need to break. I have a nice pair of 750mm axle stands that I used to use for farm machinery with a farm jack. If I'm under there for any length of time, I will use these to provide a final safety net. That's one hell of a lot of redundancy guys.

Nevertheless, I spent about an hour commissioning it, checking and re-checking every safety feature, hinge, load bearing piece of metal and platform. I lifted an old car first just to be sure before I put my pride and joy onto it. Now - that said, I do intend to get the ramp 'MOT'd' once a year by an installer, just as a second opinion, but not on commissioning - I really don't think its necessary.

I was brought up around machinery. I love working on cars and I spend a good portion of my life under them supported by axle stands or ramps. I just want a bit more room.

I think that the most dangerous thing about this ramp is the electricity that supplies it! But I've kind of given up on getting an answer to that!

 

[SimonH2]

I think that the most dangerous thing about this ramp is the electricity that supplies it! But I've kind of given up on getting an answer to that!

I'm not a qualified lecky so ... <dons flameproof suit>

I'd repurpose the old supply for the hot tub, and stick a 32A BS6363 socket (aka Commando*) socket on it (it'll be blue for 230/240V). Then you just need to stick a 32A plug on the lift and you're done. Check with the supplier or the equipment manufacturers instructions to check that a 32A supply is suitable, but given the rated current, it's unlikely it will be designed to run on anything less.

You could hard wire it in with an isolator, but using a socket means you've somewhere to plug in the welder if you need to be doing some proper gluing up. When positioning it, consider what you might plug in apart from the lift, and so where would be the best location.

I don't know your physical layout, but if you can do it by just relocating the cable and termination then you should be able to work on the basis that whoever put the supply in previously will have selected a suitable combination of cable and protection for it. Also, if all you are doing is moving the end of a circuit, and it's new location isn't outside, then I don't believe it will come under Part P.
If the existing circuit is done in SWA (wire armoured) then that's going to be easier to run than getting 6mm T+E through conduit (unless it's a short straight run).


* That's a trade name of, IIRC, MK.