Seized stopcock in lead - can I replace just "top part&

[smp50]

Hi. A lead pipe brings water into my house, surfacing out of a concrete floor near the back of the original house (now extended) into what was once the kitchen. This point is right against a shared wall (I am end-of-terrace) and my neighbour's kitchen is against that wall as well.

The stop cock is seized completely and I've tried various methods of loosening it, to no avail. However, when turned anti-clockwise the top part of the tap comes loose rather easily, separating from the rest along this line marked in red:

So I imagine I could take off the top and fit a new one - but from what I can see online currently this might be a specialist component - everything is designed for copper-->tap-->copper, it seems. Is this something I'll likely be able to find and fit myself?


If you're wondering, the led pipe joins into copper just a few inches off the right of the photograph, and I've seen only copper pipes elsewhere in the house.

It's seized open so isn't urgent but I'm decorating this room (now a very odd sitting room/dining room area full of water and gas pipes) and so want to sort plumbing out before that.

Thanks,

 

[Terry lambert]

Give it a spray of WD40 everytime you think about it over a couple of days. after a few sprays, start worrying it, until it works.

Not had one I couldn't unseize using this method.

 

[Terry lambert]

You could turn the water off in the street, and then use a lead lock, convert to copper, put in a new stopcock, then join on to the copper to the right of the pic.

Not a difficult job

 

[GavThePlumber]

Cut it out and fit a lead to copper coupler and new stop tap

 

[smp50]

Give it a spray of WD40 everytime you think about it over a couple of days. after a few sprays, start worrying it, until it works.

Not had one I couldn't unseize using this method.

I'll try that - thanks.

You could turn the water off in the street, and then use a lead lock, convert to copper, put in a new stopcock, then join on to the copper to the right of the pic.

Not a difficult job

Cut it out and fit a lead to copper coupler and new stop tap

Currently the lead/copper interface is some kind of welded business. Do you mean to use something like this? http://www.screwfix.com/p/lead-to-copper-coupler-7lb-0-918-x-15mm/53125

 

[GavThePlumber]

Yeah or a lead lock as mentioned above, cut a piece out and take it to a merchant, should sort you out.

 

[Madrab]

You'll have the original lead welded ball fixing to the copper at the moment I guess. That fitting from Screwfix is the leadloc fitting yes, relatively straightforward to fit. That will allow you to connect a new piece of copper.
If the stop cock in the pic is locked open though, why dont you just turn off the water out in the street and put a new stopcock in on the copper further down?

 

[smp50]

You'll have the original lead welded ball fixing to the copper at the moment I guess. That fitting from Screwfix is the leadloc fitting yes, relatively straightforward to fit. That will allow you to connect a new piece of copper.
If the stop cock in the pic is locked open though, why dont you just turn off the water out in the street and put a new stopcock in on the copper further down?

Neatness, I guess - if I'm going to be cutting and joining either way I suppose it's not too much more trouble to take the old one out?

 

[Madrab]

Makes sense, just giving another option. Be careful with the lead loc, it's not like a normal compression fitting onto copper, doesn't need as much force on lead cause it's softer.

Cut the lead as square as possible, I use a dremmel, then scrape it, sand it super clean and as round as possible, a good few turns of PTFE tape before putting the nut, seal and locking split ring on, then finger tight and shouldn't need any more than 1 full turn with an adjustable. Just make sure the lock ring is square against the nut before tightening, easy for it to sit off centre.

 

[smp50]

Makes sense, just giving another option. Be careful with the lead loc, it's not like a normal compression fitting onto copper, doesn't need as much force on lead cause it's softer.

Cut the lead as square as possible, I use a dremmel, then scrape it, sand it super clean and as round as possible, a good few turns of PTFE tape before putting the nut, seal and locking split ring on, then finger tight and shouldn't need any more than 1 full turn with an adjustable. Just make sure the lock ring is square against the nut before tightening, easy for it to sit off centre.

Thanks. The lead pipe runs very close to the wall actually so it might be quite tricky to work with. I'm also quite concerned about the state of some other pipes near by and may have to replace some more - I can't tell yet. I'll seek advice about that in another thread.

 

[Terry lambert]

You should be able to get some movement on the lead for access, especially if you cut the copper first. Just treat it gently.

If you do decide to un seize it. Put a spanner on the gland nut below the spindle to stop it turning as well.

If it drips when you turn the water back on, nip it up. If it doesnt stop, it needs some packing, re post.

 

[Madrab]

If there's anything I would add it would be - replace the lead as far back towards the mains outside as you can. Lead can be more unpredictable the older it gets. It may also be worthwhile getting in touch with your LA, not sure which one as you don't have a location but a lot of them will cover the cost of lead replacement works.
A nice new 25mm MDPE pipe will be much nicer, better pressure/flow too.

 

[smp50]

If there's anything I would add it would be - replace the lead as far back towards the mains outside as you can. Lead can be more unpredictable the older it gets. It may also be worthwhile getting in touch with your LA, not sure which one as you don't have a location but a lot of them will cover the cost of lead replacement works.
A nice new 25mm MDPE pipe will be much nicer, better pressure/flow too.

The lead pipe goes off underground only about 40cm to the left of the stopcock in the pictures. From that point there's still about 3.5m until the outside of the house at the front, and then only about 3 more until the water meter and all that. It would seem that much of the pipe runs underneath the fireplace, too, and that's my ancient Baxi Bermuda which can not easily be disturbed to excavate the pipe...

I'm in East Anglia, I just had a look on the "Anglian Water" website and they do have some info about lead, thanks for the suggestion. I can get a free test of the water, apparently.

 

[Terry lambert]

If you were to replace the main, you could look t moling, as opposed to digging a trench

 

[smp50]

Update:

I took the top part of the tap off and got it in a vice around the lower square-section part, then with a spanner on the gland nut and one on the tap handle I worked them against each other and gradually got some movement, until the whole thing was free. It was crusted up like a coral reef.

I think I need to replace the two flat o-rings/washers, though, thus:

The larger one is crumbling already, and the small one on the jumper (I think that's what we call it?) is OK but looks corroded and a bit dodgy.

It looks like these will do for the smaller one:
http://www.wickes.co.uk/invt/420052

But I'll have to search around for the larger.