Need to Replace a seized Stopcock - lead pipe

[experience]

An elderly pentioner has a seized stopcock, its extremely old as i've never seen one like it so i presume its got lead pipe connected to it. the stopcock is embedded in the wall just above floor height so to replace it is going to be extremely difficult as it is as the wall is going to need to knocked out to gain access. will the stopcock more than likely be soldered onto the lead or connected by a compression fitting? if it is soldered on can i cut it out and fit a leadlock stopcock quite easily or am i opening a can of worms?
any advice on the best way to replace it would be appreciated!!
thanks in advance

 

[experience]

just found a pic of the same stopcock - except i dont know if its got the handle on the left
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa10/peter999_photos/pic6-DSCF5957.jpg
can this be cutout quite easily and repaced with a leadlock stopcock?

 

[xerxes]

Is the stopcock seized closed or open? Open you can live with for a while ...

Have you considered trying to free it up rather than replacing it?

Clearly, you'll need to make sure you can turn off the supply in the street before you begin replacement (unless you're able to freeze the pipe).

Leadlock fittings, in my admittedly limited experience of them, work very well. It's worth taking good care with the preparation: make sure you have enough room to clean up the cut end of the pipe before fitting the joint.

It might be worth planning to move the stopcock to a more convenient position while you're working on it.

 

[Gees]

I had the same problem with a stopcock.
Bear in mind that the water companys pipes and stopcock are their responsibility....

See my post from ages ago

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=8450#8450

 

[kirkgas]

as they can go for years without moving it will simply be seized and can probably be freed by loosening the 20mm(ish) nut that the spindle goes through, turn it anticlockwise, you might get a slight leak but don't panic, with it loosened turn the handle with a tool to start with (grips or ring spanner over the handle) once loosened retighten the 20mm nut, remember when you tighten this it will tighen the handle again it is about getting the balance right without the 20mm nut leaking

 

[experience]

the stopcock turns a few turns before tightening up but it doesnt stop the flow of water. I'll try fixing it 1st using the info you guys gave but failing that i'm planning to isolate the water from outside using the stopcock in the street and cut this stopcock out with a hacksaw and replace it it a leadlock.
i've looked on http://www.bes.co.uk/ but cant see a leadlock stopcock - is it something that i can get off the shelf from my local plumbing merchant or do you think i'll have to order it in?

 

[ChrisR]

No, you'll need a lead-loc or lead-line and a stub of pipe.
You can also get Grippa or Talbot fittings which are more foolproof for fixing to lead, but they're big, about pint size!

Bear in mind that the water companys pipes and stopcock are their responsibility....

Only up to your boundary. After that, they'll only do a replacement of lead free under certain conditions. They don't even have an obligation to turn your supply off for you.

Excavating near lead pipes is risky - it's easy to damage them, so be careful!

 

[experience]

Cheers for the help guys - i feel much more confident with it now - from your info and the info on http://www.melimatic.com i've learnt alot

 

[JPC]

if yopu are not changing the pipework in the house to copper then you'll need to lead locs -lead size to 15mm- place them either side of the tap (you can cut the lead with plastic pipe cutters if easier) then place a stopcock inbetween with 2 bits of 15mm pipe