Shotgun stock

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Leicestershire
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United Kingdom
Hi,
I need to shorten my wooden shotgun stock.
Any advice as to how I should proceed would be most welcome, I don't want to ruin a good piece of wood!!
I do have a slide saw would a suitable blade in this be best, or is a hand tool safer?
Any advice gratefully received.
Cheers
Mike
 
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A hacksaw would shorten both the barrels and the stock!
 
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Presumably you need the stock shortened where it fits to the shoulder?
A bandsaw would probably be best for a curved cut, but you could get by with a coping saw and patience.
Traditionally internal curves are smoothed with a bobbin sander, but again glasspaper and a file would get you there.
What timber is it - walnut perhaps?
John :)
 
Presumably you need the stock shortened where it fits to the shoulder?
A bandsaw would probably be best for a curved cut, but you could get by with a coping saw and patience.
Traditionally internal curves are smoothed with a bobbin sander, but again glasspaper and a file would get you there.
What timber is it - walnut perhaps?
John :)
Hi John,
Thanks for the reply.
Not sure of the wood, as you suggest maybe walnut or beech.
It only needs to be a flat cut as I am fitting a recoil pad.
I think I am in favour of a fine cut hand saw.
What do you think?
Cheers
Mike
 
If it is a straight gut you are after, do it on a machine.

You are likely to get 'tear-out' on the upcut though so be prepared for some sanding.
 
If it already has a recoil pad fitted, so the end of the stock is already flat, you could use a cutting gauge (or a marking gauge with the pin filed to a blade) to mark the cut line. You could then cut just on the waste side of the line with a reasonably fine tenon saw. Should give you minimum break out, as the outer fibres of the wood will already be cut. Clean the sawn end up with a finely set, sharp plane. Either a block plane or (I'd use) a smoothing plane. Work in from the edges to avoid break out.
It all depends on your level of skill really. I'm not a fan of using power tools or machines for fine work, particularly for making mods to already finished pieces, although used correctly they can give the most accurate results.
 

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