Should i hack off plaster? Damp

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Hello! I’ve just bought my first house, and the house is mainly in very good condition but there are some areas of concern.

In the photo attached, from the living room, there are two patches of what looks like rising damp, either side of the radiator. Is this likely to be rising damp that needs a DPC, or could it be the radiator? I’m hoping using damp proofing paint will be enough but I don’t want to be irresponsible!

It’s a terrace house built around 1900s. This is the only wall with signs of damp.

Thank you! And sorry if you’ve had to answer millions of Damp questions in the past.
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I doubt it's the pipes, rising damp is not uncommon in houses built in the 1900's with slate damp courses.
Is it an outside wall or party wall if party does the neighbour have the same problem?
I would hack off the plaster a few inches and try a damp meter on the brick behind,
If a new dpc is injected the plaster is normally stripped off to a hight of 1metre.
 
Does this wall go up to roof level? Parapet walls on roof? For damp always look up first.Are you end of terrace?
 
Thank you for your responses so far.
I’m mid terrace, and this isn’t the party wall - it separates my living room from my dining room, on the ground floor. There doesn’t seem to be an issue (yet) on the party wall, the other side of this wall, or any of the others in the house.

There is so much conflicting info about the usefulness of a DPC, that i became wary of having one done.
 
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It looks to me like the damp is coming from the floor. The warm radiator may have helped dry the wall behind it. But take photos of the other walls please, especially, full height, in that corner. Examine the pipes, and under them, for any traces of leaks.

Is it a concrete floor that has been hidden under that laminate?

Which other rooms have similar marks?

Do not allow anybody into your house who sells silicone injections, even if he calls himself a damp specialist.
 
The house was renovated by the previous owners around 7 years ago, and they provided a report from their experience which stated :

“The slight dampness in the lower front elevation suggested that there was no damp course in the walls. However, the original ground floor floors had all been replaced with concrete floors fairly recently and the absence of damp in these floors suggested that they had been laid on damp proof membranes. Accordingly it was decided not to take any remedial action on any rising damp in the walls, but to see if it would be problematic as time went on.”
 
It looks to me like the damp is coming from the floor. The warm radiator may have helped dry the wall behind it. But take photos of the other walls please, especially, full height, in that corner. Examine the pipes, and under them, for any traces of leaks.

Is it a concrete floor that has been hidden under that laminate?

Which other rooms have similar marks?

Do not allow anybody into your house who sells silicone injections, even if he calls himself a damp specialist.
Just responded in a separate response but didn’t link it to your answer sorry! Your other questions : No other rooms have similar marks, it’s only this room on this wall - so the ground level of this wall only.
 
Ah.

Replacement concrete floors.

It is sadly not unknown, when an original wooden floor rots due to persistent damp
For the floor to be pulled up and concrete poured

Often covering up the source of damp, which was not addressed

And meaning that when it is, it is a hundred times more difficult and expensive because the concrete is in the way.

Start by looking for an easy source of water, such as a drain or gulley outside that room. Possibly a bay window with defective roof joint. Any damp in the loft.

Look for the outdoor stopcock, and the inside one. Almost certainly, the supply pipe runs in a straight line between them.

Is there a bathroom above? Was there a disused chimney?
 
BTW

Things that silicone injections do not repair

Broken drains
Leaking pipes
Condensation
Badly fitted baths and showers
Chimney penetration
Blocked gutters
Cracked brickwork

Lots more.
 
Ah.

Replacement concrete floors.

It is sadly not unknown, when an original wooden floor rots due to persistent damp
For the floor to be pulled up and concrete poured

Often covering up the source of damp, which was not addressed

And meaning that when it is, it is a hundred times more difficult and expensive because the concrete is in the way.

Start by looking for an easy source of water, such as a drain or gulley outside that room. Possibly a bay window with defective roof joint. Any damp in the loft.

Look for the outdoor stopcock, and the inside one. Almost certainly, the supply pipe runs in a straight line between them.

Is there a bathroom above? Was there a disused chimney?
Oh gosh ok, sounds stressful!! There is a disused chimney - which I’m hoping to use again. How would this be contributing to the problem?
 
Water forms condensation inside disused chimneys, unless they are ventilated top and bottom to allow airflow. A airbrick in each flue is usually enough.

When removing fireplaces, builders often hide the rubble in the hole, where it can hold damp, especially jn the ground floor as hearths usually have no DPM and are laid on damp earth and rubble.
 
Do you have (or know anybody who has) basic DIY skills?
 
I don’t yet, but I’ve booked onto a DIY weekend course that covers the basics of many aspects of DIY - to try and learn how to fix things, or at least understand the issues, myself!
 
I don’t yet, but I’ve booked onto a DIY weekend course that covers the basics of many aspects of DIY - to try and learn how to fix things, or at least understand the issues, myself!
And my dad is pretty handy with basic DIY
 

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