Should Wickes M/R Plasterboard look like this ????

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:confused: Hi

I've had delivered 5 sheets of moisture resistant plasterboard
for a bathroom ceiling (Wickes Knauf 8x4).

I brought the plasterboard because I didn't want to skim the
ceiling.

The M/R plasterboard has an "indentation" running the whole length of the board.

The indentation is near the edge, running parallel with the longest side, and
is about 3cm wide. The indentation is not that deep - but I'm sure it will be noticeable
when up and painted.

It looks like a large roller at the factory has made this while the cement was still wet.

If I fix it in place I'll have to fill and make good, which defeats the object.

Is this normal?

I would like to know so I can phone Wickes have return it.

Many thanks.

Stephen
 
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It's not unusual for plasterboards to turn up with defects and/or damage.
It very much sounds like a fault during manufacture.

If you feel this is unacceptable you need to be talking to Wickes.

But how are/was you going to finish the joint off, just but them up and paint them?
They are usually used for tiling, I would have gone for the Duplex Board for bathroom ceiling but still needs to be either plastered or tape jointed and filled.
 
Thats how its suppose to be, its called feather edge board. You have to tape and skim the joints.
 
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I also thought it to be the taper edge but the OP doesn’t say it's down both sides :confused:

Bets on the next question being "how do I tape & fill the square edge board ends" :LOL:
 
Thanks guys.

The fault is not the taper edge (I don't think you can get M/R not tapered) and as far as I'm aware, you do not plaster M/R, it is for painting direct.

I've already got my Gyofill and tape - ready once butted.

I'll contact Wickes.
 
I don't think you can get M/R not tapered
Oh yes you can; British Gypsum do a square edge MR board but only in 12.5mm.

you do not plaster M/R, it is for painting direct.
That’s not right, who told you that! Its main use is in bathrooms & kitchens as a tile base (but not in wet areas without tanking); it can also be plastered but must be primed first.
 
The maufactures website - it says;

Skim plastering should not normally be specified to Gyproc
Moisture Resistant and MR grade boards. These types of board
are intended for use in environments of higher than normal
humidity for which no gypsum plaster is designed to be suitable.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
VISIT;

http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/DS-011-02 Gyproc Moisture Resistant.pdf

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

As I said, I haven't used plasterboard for ages - I saw it somewhere on line saying that M/R only came tappered.

Thanks anyway.
 
The maufactures website - it says;
Skim plastering should not normally be specified to Gyproc
Moisture Resistant and MR grade boards. These types of board
are intended for use in environments of higher than normal
humidity for which no gypsum plaster is designed to be suitable.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
VISIT;

http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/DS-011-02 Gyproc Moisture Resistant.pdf

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Christ I’m being quoted from the manufacturer’s website by a tape & fill DIYer :eek: . I know that FFS :rolleyes: , I’m merely pointing out it can be skimmed; in fact if your only having a ½ tiled wall in a bath/shower room, you’ve got no choice.

VISIT;
http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/DS-011-02 Gyproc Moisture Resistant.pdf

Plaster should be applied only to the face of moisture resistant boards
and pre-treatment with Thistle Bond-it is required.


If you’re going quote at me from a manufacturers website, at least quote the whole firkin paragraph;
but, hey, I just do this for a living. :rolleyes:
 

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