Simple UVB Ballast wiring help

[jameskuk]

Dear forum members,

I have a very simple problem.

I have a Philips UVB bulb: PL-S 9W/01/2P 1CT/6X10BOX.

The live wire disconnected from its old ballast/choke (pictured) and cannot be resoldered.

A lighting shop advised me to buy a TRIDONIC PC 1X5-16 W BASIC SQUARE.


The questions I have are:

Is the Tridonic unit the correct unit for this bulb? If it isn't, which should I buy?

If it can work, how could it be wired?

Pictures attached


Many Thanks


James

 

[aptsys]

No, it's not the correct unit. That driver is for 4-pin tubes.

If you search for 9W ballast, there are some on ebay along with aliexpress etc. Potentially not worth the repair though.

 

[jameskuk]

Thanks for the quick response,

I have organised a return

I have found a suitable replacement for £15

It is definitely worth the repair!

Many thanks

 

[fluorescence]

Yes as I'm sure you've worked out you need a wire wound magnetic ballast, something like a Tridonic EC09 that's suitable for a 9w PL lamp on 240v. Hopefully that's what you've bought?

 

[jameskuk]

Yes, ended up getting a Vossloh Schwabe Ballast L7/9/11.851 230V 50Hz 7W 9W 11W 503875.

It's a shame that a lady from the LampShopOnline advised me to get this incorrect Tridonic ballast, that not only is for a 4 pin bulb but doesn't seem to be a magnetic ballast also.

And yet they do magnetic Tridonic switch start chokes, not the EC09 but they have a range and I'm sure one of them would have been the right one.

I also messaged BLTdirect about ballasts but they didn't get back to me, and they had the Vossloh 9W in stock! Ended up getting it from ebay in the end. Let's see if it works.

The other thing I need to buy now is a plastic enclosure for the ballast but difficult to find something completely suitable.

 

[333rocky333]

Chokes run at High temperatures, plastic may not be suitable.
Hard to tell from your flex, but the choke should be in the Live lead.
It also looks like the old choke was in a Class 2 enclosure, if you cannot ensure the new one is, then the 2 core supply flex will need upgrading to 3 core so as Earth the new choke

 

[fluorescence]

I have some experience of LampShopOnline and I will simply say it is not good. Ideally you should have got a 240v ballast (magnetic ballasts are sensitive to voltage) but the 230v one should be ok, it'll just drive the lamp a bit harder on a 240v supply.

As above I'd recommend an alloy 'project enclosure' (search on ebay, plenty to choose from). You will need to supply an earth to that enclosure though which would mean changing the plug and first section of flex. Alternatively a larger ABS project enclosure may be ok but as a minimum the balalst should be mounted on an alloy plate on the stand-offs within said enclosure to helps spread & dissipate the heat from the ballast.

 

[SUNRAY]

I trust you are not using this for the treatment of psoriasis.

 

[jameskuk]

I used it for the treatment of eczema, it cleared it up straight saway. Now use it for vitiligo, it helps it stop spreading, some patches are filling in, it works a treat along with vitamin d and ginkgo biloba.

Ok. I am going to get the alloy project enclosure and 3 core from plug to earth the enclosure, seems the ballast is already mounted on an alloy plate so will just mount it inside the box.

The light works great, but my problem now is I don't know what connectors to put on the wires to connect it to the ballast, all I've been doing is stuffing the wires on to the connectors using an electrical screwdriver!

Not safe at all... how should I properly connect the live wire to left and right of this?? (pic attached)

Thanks for your help!

 

[fluorescence]

You'll need a length of solid single core cable which will push into the holes and self-lock in. The cable is known as '1/0.8' if you search eBay for it. You could always solder (tin) some small stranded cable and try to push that in.

 

[333rocky333]

If you look at you old pic you posted you will see how they tinned there flex about 8mm that went to the old ballast, if you can do that to your new flex then may be ok.
Not more than about 1mm CSA finished Max say 1/2 mm Diameter
Do not use the TOP slots on your new ballast, use the HOLES located a bit lower down, the drawing ON the new ballast shows what pair are for L in (Left facing your pic) and for L out, though not essential.
you will only need to use one hole of each pair, ensure to get it right first time, as your unlikely to get them out again for a second attempt.
If unsure ask again.