Skirting heating

[maltaron]

I need a small amount of extra heat in my bathroom. The radiator gives a good general heat but the outside wall, with cavity insulation, is stone cold. I looked at skirting heated but is a non starter on cost so as a possible alternative I am considering running a 22mm pipe around the skirting line with a vented cage around it provide convection. Any comments would be appreciated.

TIA

 

[Nige F]

you`re better off running a chrome pipe / chrome compression fittings - leave uncovered I fitted skirting heating once - it was just a 22 pipe with a load of ali fins pressed onto it - then a metal cover .That was in a £40k new build house , but it was 1973 bet it`s been changed by now - it looked c-rap

 

[Charnwood]

Aparently, the Dragons Den mob thought this was a cr@p idea and sent the guy off with a flea in his ear.

He's now a multi-millionaire.

http://www.thermaskirt.com/
Much neater than in the good old days, this stuff has no radiant fins. The outer casing acts as the radiator.

 

[Agile]

But that one is only about 140 watts per linear metre.

The finned 22 mm tube was about 500w I seem to remember.

Its an ideal heat source because its more even and does not project far into the room or look horible.

Tony

 

[JonCa]

Considerations:-
-- Will a single pipe really do what you want?
-- By the time you've bought the bits perhaps a slightly larger capacity radiator that can heat the structure rather than just the air will cost in.
-- Are your "heating on" times to short for what your expecting.
-- Is it a heat issue or condensation on the coolest wall issue? If condensation is your ventilation up to scratch how about a MHVR unit

 

[maltaron]

Many thanks for all the replies which give me food for thought. A bit more info, the rad. on time does not depend on heating time as it is the heat sink rad for a range cooker/boiler and works whenever the pump runs. There is no condensation either on the wall or windows, mirrors etc. The main problem is that the toilet and wash basin are on the cold wall. I may try a single (or double) pipe in copper first and if no good are can use the pipework for a low level single rad.

 

[polesapart]

Don't forget an (air) bleed nipple!

 

[muggles]

it is the heat sink rad for a range cooker/boiler and works whenever the pump runs

If what you've said is correct, the heat sink rad is incorrectly installed and potentially dangerous. It must work on gravity circulation only, it absolutely must not rely on a pump to work. You should sort this out as an absolute priority

 

[JonCa]

It must work on gravity circulation only, it absolutely must not rely on a pump to work. You should sort this out as an absolute priority

Surely this is not always the case.
On my installation the boiler will trigger the pump to loose excess heat if required, the proviso is that there should be an open circuit to the load that the heat will be lost through.
This detail (in my case) is specified in the boiler installation guide for Potterton Osprey 150.
I may of course be wrong on the wider aspect but I would guess that in this (and every other) case the boilers installation guide must be referred to for specific requirements.

 

[muggles]

Your boiler may be different Jon, in general a pumped heat leak is not allowed as the heat will not dissipate sufficiently in the event of a powercut, leaving the potential for the system water to boil and flash to steam. Of course, if your boiler requires electricity to fire up this is not an issue, but many range cookers have a relatively uncontrolled heat source that requires no electricity at all and as such will carry on heating in the event of a powercut. A pumped heatleak that cannot gravity circulate is dangerous in this instance

 

[JonCa]

Your boiler may be ................. A pumped heatleak that cannot gravity circulate is dangerous in this instance

Many thanks, yes me being to focused on the only heating solution (mine) when there are so many available.