I need to relay all the tiles on my side slate roof, its a semi detached house. I live fairly close to the sea so I wonder what type of nails I will need for the slates. Seems I can use Stainless, Copper or Aluminum. Galvanized has been used and this is where I have the problem, they have just corroded away due to salt air. Which type of nail would you experienced roofers recommend and what length please?
Slate Nails.
- Thread starter aryan57
- Start date
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There are a few guides to be found on the web, this for example..
http://www.sigaslate.co.uk/fixing-recommendations.html
The fixings will depend on the slate thickness, exposure and what you're nailing into but British Standard for copper is at least 10mm head and 3mm shank. Typically the length is 38mm but you may need more or less depending on your laths and slate thickness.
I've just done my slate roof and on Catlad's suggestion used stainless hooks instead of nails. Very pleased with the result and if you're reusing the existing slates it could be easier to hook them rather than rehole and/or use the existing holes. If you get the gauges right hook fixing is quicker than nailing and to my mind is more secure with less stress on the slates.
In corrosive environments hooks have to be in 316 grade stainless.
Thanks for posting, I knew I was asking in the right place. The idea to use Stainless Slate Hooks instead of nails sounds like the idea I was looking for, a way to relay the slates without a lot of hassle. Where I have used this method in the past, ( I cut a strip of Aircraft Alloy as a hook and hung it over the batten) I have had no further problems with those slates, despite some very windy and gusty weather conditions. Maybe because it allows the slate to give a little under wind pressure.
As you say, it can be easier than re holing or using existing holes. I have just ordered 500 hooks. Thanks again and thanks for posting the link.
As you say, it can be easier than re holing or using existing holes. I have just ordered 500 hooks. Thanks again and thanks for posting the link.
That was quick work, I hope you get a good result. I don't know how much roof experience you have but it's worth doing the research to get the best outcome, the principles are well within competent DIY but there are plenty of opportunities to get things wrong. If the existing roof is ok other than the fixing that will be a useful guide but don't assume that it was all good before - headlaps need particular care and in effect the size of slate hook determines the headlap so it's important to get the right length for your roof.
Here are some links to stuff I found useful..
NHBC Technical Bulletin about Slate Hooks..
http://www.nhbc.co.uk/Builders/Tech...echnicalGuidance/72/filedownload,37296,en.pdf
Welsh Slate Roofing Brochure with fixing guide and head lap tables..
http://www.welshslate.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/roofing_brochure_Jan13.pdf
CUPA slate fixing guide..
http://www.cupanaturalslate.co.uk/pdfs/CUPA_Fixing_Guide_2008.pdf
Even using hooks some slates will need to be nailed, the eaves slates, verges and the short slates at the ridge all need conventional fixing although only the eaves rely entirely on the nails.
When the roof cover is off it's a good chance to sort out any other issues, apply wood treatment, install a membrane and upgrade insulation.
If you have any questions post them up here, I'm not a roofer but most of this stuff is fresh in my mind from the one I've just done.
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My existing roof is fine but for the fact that every time we get a storm, I am guaranteed to lose some slates. The roof is not felted but despite this, as long as all the slates are there, it is waterproof. The old galvanized nails are corroding away. Wednesday's storm with high winds really hammered the roof and resulted in 11 slates over the back bedroom slipping off with the result that water came through the bedroom ceiling. Now the bedroom is stinking while it is drying out. Thursday morning, I had no choice but to get up there and replace with new slates. All the roof timbers appear to be in excellent condition. Doing the roof is not something I want to do but I can no longer put things off because I am now losing slates on a regular basis. Another one went overnight but I have managed to patch the hole from inside.
Your advice has really been appreciated and thanks for all the links you posted. I will go through them all.
Your advice has really been appreciated and thanks for all the links you posted. I will go through them all.
Not a good situation to have at this time of year, doesn't sound like you have much choice but to get right in there and fix it. Just one suggestion to throw in - if you strip the slates it makes sense to put a permeable membrane in anyway and one benefit is that the membrane is durable enough to act as a temporary roof, especially after the battens are down.
Manufacturers have different recommendations but the makers of VP400 for example say you can leave the membrane exposed for three months without doing any more work which could buy you some time. Roofing in winter isn't much fun.
My original idea was just to relay the slates on the existing battens, as all the roof timbers are in excellent shape. It is my understanding that if I want to fit a membrane, the battens will have to be either lifted or be renewed. The idea of a VP400 membrane is a good one but there is only going to be little old me to do the job and the less work I have to do on the roof the better. I am 70 years young. As you say, roofing in winter is no fun and Thursday, I got very cold up there!
A properly laid slate roof, even without a membrane, can be made watertight, indeed, until I had the problem of corroded nail fixings, that's just how it was and I have lived here now for 31 years.
Yesterdays storm caused no further damage, no more slates went AWOL. I have no doubt that I will not do the job as well as a professional roofer but as long as I get a watertight and lasting roof at the end of the day, I will be satisfied. It gives me great satisfaction to do things for myself.
I went through all the links you posted and they were really useful. Thanks.
A properly laid slate roof, even without a membrane, can be made watertight, indeed, until I had the problem of corroded nail fixings, that's just how it was and I have lived here now for 31 years.
Yesterdays storm caused no further damage, no more slates went AWOL. I have no doubt that I will not do the job as well as a professional roofer but as long as I get a watertight and lasting roof at the end of the day, I will be satisfied. It gives me great satisfaction to do things for myself.
I went through all the links you posted and they were really useful. Thanks.
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