Solder ring fittings- worries!

[thehound]

Hello, just coming to the end of my project and am getting worried that I may have cocked up the soldering (solder ring fittings) and that on filling the system they will all leak!!!
I just wanted to check some things please...
1. I noted from the FAQs that overheating of joints can be a common problem. I’m now worried I may have not heated enough. Some of the joints have a lovely reassuring lot of solder around them, others have only a bit visible but not necessarily all the way around.
Is this ok?
2. If this is not ok is it re-heatable?
3. If there are leaks I assume you have to drain down again but do you have to replace the leaking part or can you re-heat?

I realised the last time I did this was many years ago and I’ve lost the confidence of youth!
Also, last time was on mains water so easy to switch off and fix. This is a heating system.

Thanks for any words of encouragement.

 

[oldbuffer]

My answers to your questions:
1. Check all the joints:
1a. Clean each joint to make sure you can see all round
1b. Check all round each joint, using a mirror ass necessary. You should be able to see a ring of solder all the way round. If the solder is present, but just below the surface, you should be OK.
2. Not strictly speaking re-heatable, but if you brush some flux into the joint (cold, and without any water present), then solder with the solder dipped into, and holding a blob of, flux, you'll probably get away with it.
3. Without specialist equipment and / or knowledge you will need to drain down to repair. Replacing the leaking fitting is a surer way than trying to re-solder.

You could try air pressure testing the system:

1. Buy an air testing gauge kit. (E.g. Screwfix 72940). Make sure you have a pump, such as a car tyre pump.
2. Make sure your pipework is sealed off at each end. Push fit stop ends are useful in these circumstances.
3. Make sure there is no else anywhere near the pipework under test. Where good PPE, particularly safety specs.
4. Pump up to NO MORE THAN 1/2 bar.
5. Leave for an hour and if necessary top back up to original pressure (1/2 bar max).
6. Leave for as long as you can, overnight for preference. If there is no pressure drop, you are probably OK.
7. If the pressure does drop, re-pressurise (max 1/2 bar) and go round each joint checking with soapy water for air bubbles. Repair suspect joints then repeat from 3. above.
Be careful air pressure testing. The system can contain a good deal of energy in the pressurised air, and if something gives it can go with a bang. Hence low pressure and no one else around. However, it does mean your pipework remains dry, so re-soldering is more likely to be successful.

 

[FiremanT]

If there is a leak, you would probably hear it?

 

[thehound]

My answers to your questions:
1. Check all the joints:
1a. Clean each joint to make sure you can see all round
1b. Check all round each joint, using a mirror ass necessary. You should be able to see a ring of solder all the way round. If the solder is present, but just below the surface, you should be OK.
2. Not strictly speaking re-heatable, but if you brush some flux into the joint (cold, and without any water present), then solder with the solder dipped into, and holding a blob of, flux, you'll probably get away with it.
3. Without specialist equipment and / or knowledge you will need to drain down to repair. Replacing the leaking fitting is a surer way than trying to re-solder.

You could try air pressure testing the system:

1. Buy an air testing gauge kit. (E.g. Screwfix 72940). Make sure you have a pump, such as a car tyre pump.
2. Make sure your pipework is sealed off at each end. Push fit stop ends are useful in these circumstances.
3. Make sure there is no else anywhere near the pipework under test. Where good PPE, particularly safety specs.
4. Pump up to NO MORE THAN 1/2 bar.
5. Leave for an hour and if necessary top back up to original pressure (1/2 bar max).
6. Leave for as long as you can, overnight for preference. If there is no pressure drop, you are probably OK.
7. If the pressure does drop, re-pressurise (max 1/2 bar) and go round each joint checking with soapy water for air bubbles. Repair suspect joints then repeat from 3. above.
Be careful air pressure testing. The system can contain a good deal of energy in the pressurised air, and if something gives it can go with a bang. Hence low pressure and no one else around. However, it does mean your pipework remains dry, so re-soldering is more likely to be successful.

Thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed reply.
Cheers.

 

[thehound]

I wish I’d used compression joints now!!

Thinking about it, if there are any leaks I can replace those joints with compression ones without the pipes being too dry I suppose.

 

[thehound]

My answers to your questions:
1. Check all the joints:
1a. Clean each joint to make sure you can see all round
1b. Check all round each joint, using a mirror ass necessary. You should be able to see a ring of solder all the way round. If the solder is present, but just below the surface, you should be OK.
2. Not strictly speaking re-heatable, but if you brush some flux into the joint (cold, and without any water present), then solder with the solder dipped into, and holding a blob of, flux, you'll probably get away with it.
3. Without specialist equipment and / or knowledge you will need to drain down to repair. Replacing the leaking fitting is a surer way than trying to re-solder.

You could try air pressure testing the system:

1. Buy an air testing gauge kit. (E.g. Screwfix 72940). Make sure you have a pump, such as a car tyre pump.
2. Make sure your pipework is sealed off at each end. Push fit stop ends are useful in these circumstances.
3. Make sure there is no else anywhere near the pipework under test. Where good PPE, particularly safety specs.
4. Pump up to NO MORE THAN 1/2 bar.
5. Leave for an hour and if necessary top back up to original pressure (1/2 bar max).
6. Leave for as long as you can, overnight for preference. If there is no pressure drop, you are probably OK.
7. If the pressure does drop, re-pressurise (max 1/2 bar) and go round each joint checking with soapy water for air bubbles. Repair suspect joints then repeat from 3. above.
Be careful air pressure testing. The system can contain a good deal of energy in the pressurised air, and if something gives it can go with a bang. Hence low pressure and no one else around. However, it does mean your pipework remains dry, so re-soldering is more likely to be successful.

Thanks Old Buffer!
All pressured up this morning and no sign of a leak on any soldered fittings! Hurray! Thanks.

 

[undertrained]

If there is a leak, you would probably hear it?

Or see it via the ceiling?