Spur cabinet LEDs from socket to 2 gang light switch?

[john738]

Hi,

I'm renovating my kitchen and am planning to add LED light strips (possibly dimmable) under the cabinets, joined with wire between cabinets.

Ideally I'd like to power the LED strips on/off via a switch just beside the main kitchen light switch. The main kitchen lights are currently powered via a one gang switch, and I thought it would be ideal if I could replace that one gang switch with a 2 gang switch to operate the main kitchen light and the cabinet LED lights independently. The switch for the LED strips would power the strips' power supply unit, not an actual light directly. Would that be possible?

If so, I do understand that spurring the switch for the LED strips off the existing main kitchen switch wouldn't be an option as there is no neutral in that switch, so I was wondering: would it be possible to spur the LED lights switch off a nearby wall socket instead (adding a FCU) and power the second switch in the 2 gang switch that way?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

Would it be possible to rewire the feed to the existing switch to provide a neutral?

 

[john738]

Would it be possible to rewire the feed to the existing switch to provide a neutral?

That would be the best solution (i.e. running the neutral from the ceiling rose to the switch) but unfortunately the issue is that there is an artex plasterboard ceiling which I really don't want to drill or dig into due to health and safety concerns (asbestos), that's why I am looking for an alternative way.

 

[chivers67]

There is an option to spur off the kitchen ring with an FCU (for easier maintenance) and use a wirelss Quinetic switch > TLC Quinetic

 

[plugwash]

If so, I do understand that spurring the switch for the LED strips off the existing main kitchen switch wouldn't be an option as there is no neutral in that switch, so I was wondering: would it be possible to spur the LED lights switch off a nearby wall socket instead (adding a FCU) and power the second switch in the 2 gang switch that way?

sure it's possible.

Whether it's a good idea is debatable, the risk is that someone may not realise that the switches in the enclosure are fed from different circuits and may dismantle the switch without properly isolating it first.

Putting a warning label on the switch is possible, but that is both ugly and may not stand the test of time.

Using a grid switch, and putting a warning in front of the grid but behind the faceplate may be a good option. That leaves the warning hidden in normal use, but makes it visible while the dangerous connections are still reasonablly expose.

 

[john738]

There is an option to spur off the kitchen ring with an FCU (for easier maintenance) and use a wirelss Quinetic switch > TLC Quinetic

Thanks, very interesting and such a simple solution, had no idea these even existed. The only downside would be that I could not integrate the second switch into the box of the main kitchen light switch, adding instead a second switch on the wall that would not match the style of the other switch and sockets.

 

[john738]

sure it's possible.

Great, thanks! I'll just have to explore how to wire the second switch, as it will not operate a light but the LEDs power supply

Using a grid switch, and putting a warning in front of the grid but behind the faceplate may be a good option. That leaves the warning hidden in normal use, but makes it visible while the dangerous connections are still reasonablly expose.

Very good point about the risk - installing a grid switch with a warning hidden inside seems the best solution indeed. Thank you!

I found this grid plate online:

MK Grid Plus 2-Module Grid Frame - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. For use with the MK Grid Plus system. Switches simply clip into the frame. Grids hold one row of switches only. For an 8-gang cover plate and switch box order 2 x 4-gang grid frames. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

Would it fit into the existing backbox do you think or require a special one?

I would probably use these then (hopefully the MK grid plate and switches are compatible with the British General faceplate):

MK Grid Plus 20A Grid DP Control Switch White with Colour-Matched Inserts - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Double pole 1-way switch. Part of the MK Grid Plus System. Modules simply clip into place from the front of the mounting frame (sold separately). FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

MK Grid Plus 20A 2-Way Grid Light Switch White with Colour-Matched Inserts - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Single pole 2-way switch. Part of the MK Grid Plus System. Modules simply clip into place from the front of the mounting frame (sold separately). FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

British General Nexus Grid 2-Module Grid Faceplate Black Nickel - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Sleek and slim black nickel finish frontplate has soft, rounded edges with colour-matched screws. Matches the power products of the Nexus Metal range. Ideal for switches and other domestic applications. Build configurations with a variety of combinations and...

www.screwfix.com

 

[plugwash]

There is no standard for grid products, so generally all the parts (grid, faceplate and modules) should be from the same manufacturer.

 

[john738]

There is no standard for grid products, so generally all the parts (grid, faceplate and modules) should be from the same manufacturer.

OK, I'll look for parts from the same manufacturer then, thanks.
Only remaining doubt is would the existing backbox accept a grid plate or is it necessary to install a special backbox as well?

 

[plugwash]

Grid plates of that size fit on normal backboxes, but I'd reccomend at least a 25mm one.

 

[john738]

Grid plates of that size fit on normal backboxes, but I'd reccomend at least a 25mm one.

Thank you so much for the advice