Stair stringer to skirting transition

[Flipjango]

We’re renovating a Victorian house. One of the things I need to fix is that at some point (long long ago from the amount of dirt) the staircase has dropped slightly and the trim along the top of the stringer that runs in line with the tops of the skirting board has stayed in the original position leaving a gap between the two. It’s been filled with beading long ago but very badly with a dust trap gap. I had planned to remove the trim and refit lower down (after putting some screws securing the staircase to the wall just to be on the safe side, even though it feels totally sturdy anyway).

Problem is the trim has been fixed with brad nails and on the small part I’ve already removed, it’s so far proved impossible to get it off without damaging it, or to get the old nails out of the trim, so the likelihood of removing the whole lot intact seems close to zero. I really don’t think I’ll be able to reuse the trim. I’ll probably have to take it off and leave it off.

I plan to paint the stringer so have no real problem with patching up the wall and leaving the trim off completely except the stringer is a lot lower than the skirting. I know how to finish it at the bottom step by just cutting a bit of trim at an angle, but I’ve no idea what to do at the top as it’s a really dramatic step down. What should I do? I don’t think it’ll be easy to get new trim as it’s been bent to a curve and I’ve no idea how to do that.

I’m not a carpenter, just a decent DIY’er so any explanations in idiot terms, ideally with pictures please!!

 

[Deleted member 174758]

It us unlikely to have been bent to a curve - it was most likely either machined to the shape (spindle moulder, ring fence), or worked with a specialist plane (long since out if production).

If you can get a matching or similar moulding in a steamable hardwood, such as beech or oak, it may be possible to form a top piece by steaming then bending round a form, but this is an advanced technique, so I doubt it is suitable for an inexperienced woodworker. The problem is that you can only steam bend a limited number of wood species (and most pines aren't bendable this way), and kerfing, another often suggested technique (I sometimes suspect by people who have never done it) isn't really that suitable in this instance as there will be multiple visible gaps left at thevbase of the moulding from doing it

The best bet is always to try to repair the original if at all possible. How bad is the original? TBH 20 years ago I did used to make up repair pieces like yours, but the charge back then was £60 and upwards for one (and even then there was very little profit in the job as it is a very time consuming process)

 

[Flipjango]

Happy to leave it off @JobAndKnock, just can’t work out how to finish off

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I think I'd remove the original moulding, clean it up then refix it by pinning through the moulding into the top of the stringer. If using power tools this would require something like an 18 gauge (gas or pneumatic) pinner - if doing the job by hand it would mean pilot drilling the moulding (a panel pin chucked in an electric drill could be used), then pinning into place using panel pins every 100 to 150mm driven with a small hammer and if needs be punched under with a nail set. Dealing with the holes requires a filler, but what you use depends on what finish you intend to have - painted or lacquered

 

[Flipjango]

Thanks @JobAndKnock but as I said, I’ve not been able to remove the profile without damaging it so replacing it isn’t an option. Therefore I need to know how to finish the different heights of stringer and skirting without the trim.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Most things can come apart with care and appropriately sized bars (and a Stanley knife). If you can't dismantle, repair it and refit it I can't see how you'll refinish it without ut looking a total mess

 

[Flipjango]

Thanks @JobAndKnock but it really won’t come off. The Brad nails are in deep and are splitting the wood badly before they come out of the wall. We have all the tools and plenty of experience but this is just one where we have to admit defeat. So I have to find another solution. I know you think refit is the best option but it’s not an option here.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I very much doubt if that is the case. When working on a listed building, something incidentally I am presently doing (yet again), when trying to remove anything I start by trying to remove the fixings and cut round any attachment points such as paint or wallpaper. If that fails I then start to work carefully with prybars and wedges to gradually pull the piece off. My smallest prybar is only 6in long, and you do need to match the bars to the scale of the work. As a last resort I may need to resort to cutting out joints carefully with a multitool (often with the blade guided on a block.of wood). I rarely come across anything which cannot be removed and needs more drastic action. As far as wecare concerned plasterwork can often just be replaced if needs be should there be any collateral damage

 

[Flipjango]

Thanks @JobAndKnock but can we get back to answering my question which wasn’t about removing the trim but how to finish off without the trim. Whilst you won’t believe it can’t be removed I’m afraid you’re wrong.

Is anyone else able to offer a solution please to finishing the end with the trim removed.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Yeah, right. I'll go back to doing my day job then...

 

[Flipjango]

@JobAndKnock you’re not here, I am. I’ve taken it off. It’s splintered, twisted and ruined. It doesn’t fit anymore. It’s taken way more time than I can afford to give it anymore. It won’t work. It was done with the utmost care and a great deal of damage to the plaster. It didn’t come off intact. The nails won’t come out of the wood. It’s a lost cause.