Hi, I recently bought a new Honeywell 4073 3 port valve and used the powerhead part to replace my existing one and it seemed to solve the problem I have been having with my system, but in doing so I noticed that the rotating shaft bit on the valve that the powerhead sits on is stiff to turn by hand on mine but is easy to turn on the new one. Is this because mine is seizing up, hence the old powerhead failing, or is it because the one on my system has water in it making it stiff to turn. I am concerned because I don't want the new powerhead failing for the same reason and I don't really want to go through draining the system down to replace the valve itself unless I have to !?!
Stiff 3 port valve.
- Thread starter Revproman
- Start date
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A Catch 22 situation!
The shaft should be almost loose enough to turn by fingers if you have a strong grip. Certainly "two finger" loose when you use a tool.
Yours may well be seized and have damaged the motor head. Sometimes you can free it up by rapid movement by hand.
Replacing the whole valve would obviously be the professional solution.
Tony
The shaft should be almost loose enough to turn by fingers if you have a strong grip. Certainly "two finger" loose when you use a tool.
Yours may well be seized and have damaged the motor head. Sometimes you can free it up by rapid movement by hand.
Replacing the whole valve would obviously be the professional solution.
Tony
A little WD40 and a lot of wiggling with a small adjustable (eg 4") will probably free it right up and the chances are it'll last for a long time.
If you have to change the gubbins, remove the square plate and swap it over, which is much easier than removing the whole valve, usually.
If it's leaking though, don't leave it.
If you have to change the gubbins, remove the square plate and swap it over, which is much easier than removing the whole valve, usually.
If it's leaking though, don't leave it.
It's reasonably free and I can turn it with two fingers, just.. but not as free as the new one, but changing the plate sounds a good idea, I will try that first if I decide to drain the system down.
Thanks for the quick responses
Thanks for the quick responses
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ChrisR is spot on the money here. A new valve will always feel more 'free' than one that's been in use, and it's nonsense to suggest that the only "professional" approach is to do more work than is necessary.
Clearly it would be false economy to drain down and leave a suspect valve in place, if you happen to have a spare to hand, but otherwise leave alone until you have to change it.
Clearly it would be false economy to drain down and leave a suspect valve in place, if you happen to have a spare to hand, but otherwise leave alone until you have to change it.
Unlike most electric motors, the Synchrons used on Honeywell 2 and 3-port valves are DESIGNED to spend long periods of time 'running stalled' - ie. with power in the motor coils but the motor shaft not turning. This is the NORMAL state for a Honeywell 2-port valve in the open position. The key issue is not whether the motor can open the valve; it's whether the spring-return mechanism can pull it shut again. If it does in a few seconds, there's usually no need to worry about stiffness off the valve spindle.
I suggest extreme caution in the use of WD40 anywhere near rubber seals (such as the O ring on the spindle of a zone valve. You will be gambling that the O ring material is unaffected by the mineral oil in WD40. Unfortunately, many types of rubber ARE affected, swelling up and / or going softer. Not a good idea for O rings. Silicon grease is AFAIK the only generally safe option.
I suggest extreme caution in the use of WD40 anywhere near rubber seals (such as the O ring on the spindle of a zone valve. You will be gambling that the O ring material is unaffected by the mineral oil in WD40. Unfortunately, many types of rubber ARE affected, swelling up and / or going softer. Not a good idea for O rings. Silicon grease is AFAIK the only generally safe option.
WD40 is recommended for rubbers. Silicone grease would make some rubbers swell, but not the general run of O ring materials.
WD40 should be kept off polycarbonate and polystyrene.
"The key issue is not whether the motor can open the valve; it's whether the spring-return mechanism can pull it shut again."
The key issue is surely whether the valve works. Not much good if it's so stiff the motor won't open it. Obviously the motor is stronger than the spring, (or it would never open!) so the spring might shut it but that's only half the issue.
They often stick half-open.
WD40 should be kept off polycarbonate and polystyrene.
"The key issue is not whether the motor can open the valve; it's whether the spring-return mechanism can pull it shut again."
The key issue is surely whether the valve works. Not much good if it's so stiff the motor won't open it. Obviously the motor is stronger than the spring, (or it would never open!) so the spring might shut it but that's only half the issue.
They often stick half-open.
Softus said:..........Ah yes - much like elephants, you and me never forget
..............
Bad grammar. It should be "......you and I never forget."
It is ok to have "you never forget", or "I never forget", but "ME never forget"? I don't think so.
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