Stone lintels... or not?

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Hi,

I'm a sometime lurker who's posting because jobs in my new house are getting bigger and bigger and it's getting to the stage where I could use some advice or just conformation about a few things if I can. I've got a few questions and also other questions following on from questions so I apologise if this is all a bit convoluted!

I'm replacing three timber frame windows in my two storey Victorian terrace which is rendered externally and I'm putting in new UPVC windows to replace them. I've attached photos of two of the old timber windows and where they're set. I'm replacing like for like size wise and won't need to alter the opening widths at all.

The first is the downstairs window in the main body of the house. I think that there's a traditional stone lintel behind the render in the outer layer of bricks. I know for a fact there's a timber lintel in the internal layer but as of yet I haven't discovered what's in the outer.



I'm assuming that a stone lintel in itself is load bearing provided it's in adequate condition? All of the non rendered Victorian houses in the area seem to have them.

There are also two UPVC windows at the front of the house and I'm thinking they may also be fitted below stone lintels. Apparently these front windows are getting on for 10 years old and they seem to be doing fine.

However these houses have been messed about with quite a lot over the years, the window sizes in the street are all different at the front and back for instance (although all the houses are from the same Victorian era and all rendered externally). Some bright spark could have removed the lintels in any of the windows for no good reason, and relied on the timber frames to support the whole lot.

If that’s the case my second question is, what type of lintel would be strong enough to support the structure when I replace the timber with the UPVC?

Here's the second window -




It's built into a 60s or 70s extension which is now the bathroom. There's a thin piece of plywood about 15mm thick directly above the window frame and then a flat, felt covered roof directly above that.

What is the implication of replacing a timber frame with a UPVC here? There isn't really much of a load above it to bear or is there?

Anyway sorry for banging on, any tips however how simple you think they may be, much appreciated.
 
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In pic 1. the opening head seems perfectly level - a good sign.
The frame is set back maybe 4" - also a good sign.
Note: that when you replace the frame to take account of the TV ariel.

Perhaps, go ahead and remove the internal wood lintel and then post a pic of what you reveal? Leave the existing frame in position for the time being.

In pic 2. the wall plate, above the frame & behind the fascia, will be the supporting member acting as a lintel. You could safely remove the existing frame.
Quite how the interior window opening head is detailed could be tricky if it runs into the ceiling.
But i think that after removing the wood frame you could work out the details.
Any new PVC frame will have to be measured to take account of the fascia - perhaps rough measure up and go visit a supplier with your pics, & see what they have to say?
You could always cut the fascia?
Sometimes we would drop (furr down) the head to come below the fascia - but it depends on interior detail.
 
Ta for the advice dann, it turns out there's only plasterboard underneath the lintel at the top of the frame (the head?) so maybe I'll be able to cut enough of that out and have a look that way?

I think there's also plasterboard in the same part of the upstairs window (the third one I never took a pic of), the sound is exactly the same when I tap it.

I can look at them both tonight after work, I never had a chance to get it done last night.

I'll probably replace the fascias on the extension, it's only about 10 feet in total and they are a bit tatty / rotten around the edges.

So I could take the old fascia off, replace the window, put the new fascia up? I might even be able to salvage the gutter, it doesn't look as bad in real life as it does in that pic, if you see what I mean.

The question is do I replace the fascias with timber or UPVC. There's a place by our work that does really cheap PVC but I prefer wood, really.

The cable in pic 1 is for an old wall light in the back yard, I'll probably take that off and get rid, the yard isn't that dark because it gets a lot of light from the streetlights at the end of the road.

Quite how the interior window opening head is detailed could be tricky if it runs into the ceiling.
I think it must do but as you say, I should be able to work that one out hopefully.
 
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1. You could remove the CI gutter and clean, de-rust and paint it. Note, it will be heavy to lower. Cut the bolts at the unions with a mini hacksaw. Re-join with a putty paint mix on to a tacky painted union and galv. gutter bolts.

2. You could carefully detach the fascia and circular saw off any rotten fascia edges (both?), sand and paint and re-fix with long screws.
Note the condition of the rafter tails?

3. Before any of the above, sort out the lintels and window heads.

4. Determine if you are going to cut the fascia at the opening, or drop the window head and install a shorter PVC frame?
 

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