Supply pipe filled with levelling compound! HELP

[SparrowHawk99]

When pouring the compound a load of it ****ed down one of the supply pipes. It would be funny it is wasn't so tragic. One pipe is unaffected. Both pipes are fitted into a concrete floor and have been sleeved but I fitted the pipe so that it snakes through one door way and around and through another so I doubt very much that I'll be able to pull out the existing and feed in a fresh pipe. I'm prepared to take a hammer drill to it but before I do is there anything that can be done to remove the compound from the pipe? Would one shot work? The concrete is a month old. The pipe is not completely blocked as I've checked with a torch

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• SparrowHawk99
• 18 Jan 2014
• 1

 

[conny]

Are those water feed pipes and is that a rubber 'o' ring inside?
If so then I fear you may have to replace it as trying to clear the concrete will possibly damage the sealing ring. Next time you will know to block them off with a rag or something.

 

[SparrowHawk99]

Are those water feed pipes and is that a rubber 'o' ring inside?
If so then I fear you may have to replace it as trying to clear the concrete will possibly damage the sealing ring. Next time you will know to block them off with a rag or something.

Yeah both pipes are coming from a megaflow and will feed a sink.

Is it the correct type of pipe? In screwfix book it says its for hot water and cold water systems so I thought it would be ??

Hammer drill it is

 

[xdave]

That is unfortunate!

Really all you can do now is carefully break away the compound/concrete to the right of the photo to expose about six inches of both pipes, cut off the elbows and refit new ones. It should not stick to the pipe so if you are careful it should come off but it will be a fiddly job. If you need to extend them back to the current position then use a standard compression fitting to do so with PTFE both under and over the olive and otherwise treat the plastic pipes as if they were copper. Ideally the joints should remain accessible, but if your floor is laminate (from your other thread) then I'd just leave a small void as you are unlikely to walk that close to a sink.

Whenever I am laying levelling compounds or screeds I form around any areas like that and then seal the edges to the sub floor/walls using a tubed PU adhesive (Screwfix 40778 would do). It sets quickly and expands slightly to ensure a good fit, but is easy to remove the formwork afterwards as long as one side is accessible. Silicone would do it too but might grip it a bit more strongly. The slightest gap will result in the compound flowing through, as you have found.

If you use self-levelling compound again then you may want to invest in a spiked roller as it will help to achieve a lovely smooth, level finish free of lumps and bubbles.

 

[SparrowHawk99]

Not so bad after all, the compound stopped flowing about 1.5m down the pipe, thankfully I didn't apply it to thin otherwise I've no doubt it would have run most of the 9m length.

Anyway, I've removed the pipe and ready to rejoin with a new piece and refit the elbow at the end.

I just wanted to check with you xDave, can I use a push fit straight coupler for the join with inserts obviously, such as in the link http://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-pem0415w-straight-couplers-15mm-pack-of-10/89893

Or is the compression fitting a must? Only reason I'm being difficult is I have the plastic connects already, so would save a trip to screwfix, but if it's essential I'll buy a copper straight coupling, two olives and some PTFE tape.

Will leave a small void over the fitting as you suggested just in case

I massively under calculated the floor, it's a patchwork quilt of different leveling compounds hurriedly thrown together, I'm really ashamed of it, and the cost was astronomical so I can't have another go, just have to learn from it for next time. Thanks for the tips

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• SparrowHawk99
• 21 Jan 2014
• 1

 

[xdave]

If the joint is to remain accessible then you can use the push fit connectors. If you use a standard compression fitting you must remember to still use the pipe inserts because they prevent the pipe deforming. You can get inserts designed soley for that purpose (the ones without the secondary oring part way down the insert), but I have used the dual oring ones before without issue. It should also have at least the pipe diameter in stop depth. Which fitting you use makes very little difference but it must not be buried in concrete (or screed) unless used for underfloor heating. I would imagine that sleeving would be sufficient. My preference for compression is simply because the edpm rubber orings in the push fit fittings will break down first - but it will still be 25+ years away.

 

[SparrowHawk99]

Someone over heard me in screwfix and told me to use the push fit, so went ahead with that.

I won't bury any of that exposed pipe in concrete for the purposes of refitting in case there is a leak. it's only 40mm or so wide so can't see it being a problem once the underlay and then floor goes on top.

Thanks again xDave. I think the construction gods took pity on me this time as I rectified the job in half an hour. I had expected the whole day!