Suprima lockout.
- Thread starter rick3
- Start date
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hi rick
now turn off the boiler/wiring centre supply at the fused spur, take out the orange wires and put each off them in a seperate connecter block
switch the power back on, and with the programmer set to off for ch and HW measure the voltage on each off them
the one that still has 240v on it is the faulty one
if both are at 0v then switch off again,put the oranges back and repeat the process this time using the greys,
when you have found the faulty one then leave that in the connecter and reconnect the other one to the wiring centre, this will give you limited functionallity for now
Matt
now turn off the boiler/wiring centre supply at the fused spur, take out the orange wires and put each off them in a seperate connecter block
switch the power back on, and with the programmer set to off for ch and HW measure the voltage on each off them
the one that still has 240v on it is the faulty one
if both are at 0v then switch off again,put the oranges back and repeat the process this time using the greys,
when you have found the faulty one then leave that in the connecter and reconnect the other one to the wiring centre, this will give you limited functionallity for now
Matt
ok this is what i find:
1. Both orange wires are connected together at block#10.
2. Both grey ones are together at block#6. This block is "floating" ie it does not continue anywhere from that point. Is this ok???
3. Took both orange wires out of block#10. They were 0v both.
4. Block#10 appers to be 'permanent' 240v (from the boiler, I guess).
5. Therefore the grey ones must be the switched 240v. But as I said they end up together in a "floating" block, #6.
6. Regardless, I checked the switching action of both microswitches HW & CH. Both greys switch between (a) around 11v (not 0v) when valve is closed and (b) 240v when the valves are activated from the programmer.
7. Moving these valve to the manually open position is not far enough to activate the microswitch.
So my point is that to my unprofessional eye it looks as if the current way both orange and grey are wired in the wiring box it dosn't matter to the boiler if the microswitches work or not. Am I correct?
What now?[/b]
1. Both orange wires are connected together at block#10.
2. Both grey ones are together at block#6. This block is "floating" ie it does not continue anywhere from that point. Is this ok???
3. Took both orange wires out of block#10. They were 0v both.
4. Block#10 appers to be 'permanent' 240v (from the boiler, I guess).
5. Therefore the grey ones must be the switched 240v. But as I said they end up together in a "floating" block, #6.
6. Regardless, I checked the switching action of both microswitches HW & CH. Both greys switch between (a) around 11v (not 0v) when valve is closed and (b) 240v when the valves are activated from the programmer.
7. Moving these valve to the manually open position is not far enough to activate the microswitch.
So my point is that to my unprofessional eye it looks as if the current way both orange and grey are wired in the wiring box it dosn't matter to the boiler if the microswitches work or not. Am I correct?
What now?[/b]
In addition/correction:
1. Block#10 is a permanent Live (from main power swich/fuse box).
2. Together with both orange wires in block#10 there is also the black wire that is going to the boiler block, in position 'SwL'.
Shouldn't logically this black SwL be coming to the boiler from the switched 240v ie the greys (in my case block#6) ?
So, can I try moving the black SwL wire from #10 (with the orange wires)
to be with the greys at #6 ?
1. Block#10 is a permanent Live (from main power swich/fuse box).
2. Together with both orange wires in block#10 there is also the black wire that is going to the boiler block, in position 'SwL'.
Shouldn't logically this black SwL be coming to the boiler from the switched 240v ie the greys (in my case block#6) ?
So, can I try moving the black SwL wire from #10 (with the orange wires)
to be with the greys at #6 ?
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what else in in the terminal with the greys ?
I moved the black SwL to be with the greys.
From first look everything looks OK now.
It doesn't lockout anymore when you turn the heating off from the programmer which is good news.
I also know that both valves are ok.
What I dont understand is how the hell did it work before and who wired it like that????
For now I think I'm ok but you never know. I really hope its ok.
Thank you very much, especially for the clear description by Matt.
From first look everything looks OK now.
It doesn't lockout anymore when you turn the heating off from the programmer which is good news.
I also know that both valves are ok.
What I dont understand is how the hell did it work before and who wired it like that????
For now I think I'm ok but you never know. I really hope its ok.
Thank you very much, especially for the clear description by Matt.
the greys should have a perm live to them.
oranges should have the black to the SWL to boiler.
oranges should have the black to the SWL to boiler.
In my box at the moment its the other way around.
Electrically speaking there is no difference (?) but I could take the power down again and reverse grey & orange in order to follow the standard way. Should i do this?
Electrically speaking there is no difference (?) but I could take the power down again and reverse grey & orange in order to follow the standard way. Should i do this?
makes life easier in the future if anyone looks in the wiring centre.
All looks ok so far.
just last question regarding the bypass route, there is a red tap there - it allows water to be returned to the boiler just before the CH & HW valves - should this tap be normally open or closed? I cant remember how it was originally.
just last question regarding the bypass route, there is a red tap there - it allows water to be returned to the boiler just before the CH & HW valves - should this tap be normally open or closed? I cant remember how it was originally.
about a turn open.
hi rick
Glad you are up and running again
yes you are correct, electrically speaking there is no difference (its just 2 ends to a single pole switch as i'm sure you are aware) and its easy enough to swap out and follow standard so you might as well, as seco has said it will make life easier for the next man
glad we could help
Matt
Glad you are up and running again
yes you are correct, electrically speaking there is no difference (its just 2 ends to a single pole switch as i'm sure you are aware) and its easy enough to swap out and follow standard so you might as well, as seco has said it will make life easier for the next man
glad we could help
Matt
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