Taper edge joints - do I need them on every angle?

[mk2phil]

Hi guys,

I've just built a false chimney breast (from wood) to house a new plasma TV, and whilst I was doing it have also added a few extra bits and pieces for decoration/features. The plan is to plasterboard it and then get a plasterer in to skim the whole lot.

I've already got the plasterboard - taper edge - as I read that this is used to give the correct internal/external angles when you add the metal angle strip over the top before plastering/filling. My questions is do I need to make sure that I have a taper edge on every single edge/angle?

Becuase I'll have loads of off-cuts where there wont be any taper on any of the faces, can these be used still for some of the angles? I'm worried that if I simply used normal plasterboard - i.e. non-tapered - and then the plasterer adds the edging bead on top, this will produce a visible rise in the edges when plastered?

Hopefully this makes sense! Thanks for any help in advance.

Or should I use the tapered edges for the 'main' edges and the rest can simply be

 

[Alastairreid]

tapered edge p/board is normally used when taping and filling, it will make no difference if you are getting the lot skimmed.

 

[Richard C]

That's not correct; taper edge boards are used when the joints are just scrimed filled (without plastering). When a plaster skim is being applied, always use square edge boards, it’s much less work for the plasterer as the tapers have to be filled out level first before the wall can be completely skimmed.

Whatever you do, DON'T fit the boards with tapers on the external corners or the thin angle bead used on these will be too low & the finish skim won’t be flat.

 

[Alastairreid]

That's not correct; taper edge boards are used when the joints are just scrimed filled (without plastering). When a plaster skim is being applied, always use square edge boards, it’s much less work for the plasterer as the tapers have to be filled out level first before the wall can be completely skimmed.

Whatever you do, DON'T fit the boards with tapers on the external corners or the thin angle bead used on these will be too low & the finish skim won’t be flat.

whats not correct?

 

[Richard C]

Hi guys,
I've already got the plasterboard - taper edge - as I read that this is used to give the correct internal/external angles when you add the metal angle strip over the top before plastering/filling. My questions is do I need to make sure that I have a taper edge on every single edge/angle?

That's not correct; & it will make life very difficult if the OP puts the tapers on the external corners.

 

[mk2phil]

Thanks Richard,

ok the problem is that i've already bought all the boards and they're taper edge. I'll have to trim both ends of so that they're squre edged when I fit them - is this ok?

I'd assumed that even with taper edge boards, that becuase I was gettring them skimmed the plaster would just infill the taper sections with extra plaster - but on reflection I suppose if the skim is normally only 1-2mm think, then if it has to infill the taper section too this would be too much for the thinckness of a normal skim.

Also, how much of a gap should I leave between boards when I butt them together - a few mm or touching? Some of the boards are being screwed onto battens, others will be dot'n'dabbed directly onto brickwork. I had planned to butt every join tightly so they're touching - but is this right?

When you use square edge board, does the join tape/mesh show through when its been skimmed - or is the skim enough to cover this for a spotless finish where you cant see any joins (assuming the plasterer is good!)

Thanks for your advice so far Richard